Painting a Room Overview Tip: As a rule of thumb, work from the center out, and always paint rails before stiles. After wiping down any dirty woodwork with a household cleaner, sand the trim, doors, and windows with 120-grit silicon-carbide sandpaper. Sand old paint so new paint can adhere. Sand bare wood to remove raised grain, level off wood filler, and ease over sharp edges. When sanding flat surfaces, hold the sandpaper in your hand to get into any slight depressions that a rigid sanding block would miss. On profiled moldings, use a soft sanding block or sanding sponge that conforms to the shape of the molding. Take care not to let the sandpaper touch glass; it will leave scratches. When the sanding is done, dust the woodwork with an old, worn brush or a shop vacuum. Then wipe it clean with a tack cloth. Tip: "Check paper regularly for wear," Dee says. "It's time to switch to fresh paper when you feel that your elbow is doing more of the work." If walls and ceilings are bare plaster, coat with oil-based or all-purpose acrylic primer.

Then prime bare, sanded woodwork to ensure good adhesion of the finish coats. It's not necessary to prime previously painted surfaces if they're in good condition. Follow the basic application, distribution, and tipping steps outlined in "Technique." On doors and windows, follow the sequence detailed in "Paint by Number." Allow primer to dry overnight, then sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper. Clean up the dust with vacuum and tack cloth before applying final coats. Tip: Before using a brush, saturate it with water (for latex paint) or paint thinner (for oil-based paint). Flex the bristles so the fluid can reach up into the brush's ferrule. Spin or tap the brush dry; it will be easier to clean, thereby extending its life. Use lightweight spackling compound and a putty knife to fill small holes or cracks. Push spackling compound in, then smooth the patch. Once the compound is dry, spot prime the patch or completely re-prime the walls, depending on size of the repair.

On new woodwork, overfill nail holes with a water-based wood filler to allow for shrinkage, then allow it to dry before sanding. Caulk the gaps between the primed woodwork and the walls. Pull the caulk gun in a smooth motion as you squeeze its trigger. The goal is to apply only as much caulk as needed. Control the flow of caulk by adjusting the trigger pressure and the speed at which you pull the tip along. Smooth the fresh caulk with a wet finger. Tip: To avoid applying too much caulk, use a utility knife to carefully shave slivers from the tube's spout until a hole emerges. Bevel the sides of the tip so it'll fit snugly into gap between wall and trim. With a brush or pad, apply a 2- to 2 1/2-inch-wide band of paint along the edges of the ceiling; this is called "cutting in". Try to make straight, even lines without masking tape. Wipe away any mistakes away with a rag. Dip a roller mounted on an extension pole into a roller pan filled halfway with paint. Run the roller over the pan's shallow end until the roller cover is evenly coated with paint.

Starting at one corner, mentally section the ceiling into 3-foot squares and use the basic steps outlined in "Technique." screen door repair ocean city mdWork your way across the width of the room, one square at a time.1 hour fire rated fiberglass door Brush the first finish coat onto the woodwork. bi fold door dressingFor the doors and windows, follow the application sequence in "Paint by Number." prehung interior doors saleWhen the paint is completely dry, sand the paint lightly with 220-grit sandpaper, then wipe away any dust with a tack cloth.roll up garage doors orlando

Next, apply the final finish coat. If you get paint on glass, wait for it to dry, then remove it with a window scraper. indoor outdoor carpet searsTo prevent scratching the glass, wet the surface first with window cleaner.roll up garage doors orlando Tip: "You want to leave a narrow strip of paint on the glass to seal the wood from moisture. Hold the edge of a 6-inch-wide putty knife blade against the glass, with its flat side against the wood, and scrape up to it. You'll be left with an neat, even strip of paint on the glass that's the thickness of the blade." When baseboard paint is dry, cover the top of the molding with blue masking tape. Using a brush or pad, cut in around the window and door trim first, then cut in along the baseboard and at the ceiling or crown molding. Paint the walls using a roller on an extension handle.

Mentally section the wall off in squares roughly 3 or 4 feet wide, and work from the top down. Follow the basic steps outlined in "Technique." Once the paint is dry, remove any nubs by scraping the wall with a putty knife. For glossier sheens, sand lightly with 150-grit paper, then wipe away dust with a tack cloth. Roll on the final coat, then remove the masking tape as soon as paint has set up; pull it slowly to avoid tears. To find a locksmith near you to change, fit or replace your door locks Please enter your postcode or location in the search box below. If you are thinking about changing or replacing door locks ( or window ) on your house/apartment/flat/bungalow or new business premises than a MLA approved locksmith will be able to assist you in fitting a replacement lock. Should you have just moved in a new home the first thing you should do is change your door locks. You may also want to upgrade your locks to comply with insurance standards or need to replace the locks due to damage.

A locksmith will be able to help replace your homes locks, the most common reasons a new locks will need to be fitted range from the following: Moved into a new home/flat/apartment or changed business address and need to retain key authority. Locks require upgrading for insurance reasons (for example your insurance may stipulate that locks have to be British Standard 3621) or for peace of mind. Lost key or someone has a key that should not. Lock is beginning to be unreliable and can be difficult to operate. (Usually either worn or faulty.) The most common lock types usually found on residential/commercial properties are the below three types of door locks: For this type of door lock, even though there are many different types of nightlatch, and different back sets / dimensions, the same principal in most cases applies. Pull or ‘slam’ door shut (door is latch locked) and requires a key to open from outside On the inside the latch part of the lock is retracted usually by operating a small lever or handle.

Used on front/back and other entrance doors Leading manufacturers of Nightlatch locks: This type of lock is normally fitted into the door and is usually operated by a longer brass or silver flag type key with teeth on the end in a symmetrical pattern. Ranges in security usually ranging between 2 lever and 5 lever British Standard. This standard is preferred by insurance companies as it means the lock has been tested against popular types of attack for a certain period of time. Which should ensure your property or business is secure if attacked. If you have handles on your mortice style lock this lock type is referred to as a sash lock, the handles operate the latch on the lock which keeps the door shut when pushed or pulled closed) A deadlock does not have a handle and is always operated by a key, opened from one of both sides by key. Leading manufacturers of Mortice locks: This type of lock is extremely popular and found on many different types of door locks and security applications.

Common door types a euro lock cylinder is found on: Aluminium shop front doors Timber multipoint door locks Key switches that operate roller shutters on business premises Euro locks come in an array of sizes and security levels and different finishes to suit application and hardware fitted or required. Advantages of Euro profile cylinder locks The sometimes have a thumbturn on the inside so exiting the property in a emergency is easy and can be done without a key. These locks can also be keyed alike to suit (1 key works all locks if required.) Leading manufacturers of Euro locks: Fitting and changing any type of lock yourself is a risky thing to do, especially as you could inadvertently be putting your property at risk of burglary if you fit the wrong lock or fit the right lock incorrectly. There any many standards of locks ( EN1303, BS3621, BS8621, BS10621, TS0071 & 3 star, Kitemark, PAS3621, SS312 Diamond ) – so you need to know what these means, what minimum requirement your insurance requires and whether or not you want to go for a higher level for peace of mind