Don't let a broken doorknob keep you from entering a room. Most residential doors have doorknobs. A spindle threads through the latch mechanism and attaches to both sides of the knob; turning the knob rotates the spindle and retracts the latch from the strike. You might be able to rotate a broken knob, but if it fails to engage the spindle, it will not open the door. You must access the latch and spindle to open a closed door when the knob is broken. Remove the screws from the escutcheon plate covering the latch mechanism and the hole in the door. These screws hold both sides of the doorknob to the surface of the door and help support the spindle. Grab the broken knob and pull it from the door. Depending on the manufacturer, the spindle may pull from the latch or slide off the spindle. Use the screwdriver to push the opposite side of the doorknob from the door and latch. Pull the spindle from the center of the latch if applicable. Thread the screwdriver through the large spindle hole in the latch.

Pull the screwdriver away from the jamb to retract the latch and release it from the latch strike. Push open the door as you pull on the screwdriver. Look along the throat of your broken doorknob for a small set screw or a small slit. Use a small hex key to loosen the setscrew, or insert a small flat-head screwdriver into the slit to release the knob. Pull the knob off the spindle. Remove the screws holding the escutcheon plate to the door if they are exposed, or look along the outer edge of the escutcheon plate for a small slit. Remove the screws from the plate, or insert the small screwdriver into the slit to release the plate from the door. Remove the escutcheon plate to expose the adapter plate supporting the spindle and door latch. Grasp the exposed spindle with pliers. Try turning the spindle clockwise to retract the latch from the strike and open the door. Remove the screws from the adapter plate and pull the plate from the door if the spindle fails to turn. Pull the spindle from the latch.

Insert the shaft of the screwdriver into the spindle opening. /Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionThat small hole in the side of the handle is the key to the answer.  light oak upvc patio doorsIF it is threaded, then you will need to go to a hardware store and find a set screw that fits it along with an allen wrench that fits it ( a small wrench made of an l-shaped or t-shaped piece of hexagonal hardened steel stock).  garage doors yukon oklahomaIF it is not threaded, you will instead need a tapered roll pin of the correct length and diameter to drive through the hole.  garage door installation nashua nhAnother clue is that roll pin connections typically extend completely through the knob, so there would be a matching small hole opposite the one shown in the photo.  shower door repairman

There do not appear to be threads on the shaft that extends through the door, most modern ones have threads on one side only if at all. If you’re unable to find the screw, you would need to replace the lock. panel lift garage door sydneyIf you’re located in NYC, SOS Locksmith can install locks professionally for you.screen door repair ocean city mdYep...as others here have said, all you need is that little "set-screw" to lock the handle to the shaft. garage door repair everettMost hardware stores and home centers have an assortment of set-screws, so taking your handle to them should be the simplest and quickest way to find what's needed. If the hole threads are stripped, you might need to do a bit more to fix this.

If so, you'll have to drill the hole a bit larger, then "tap" the hole with threads to accept the next size set-screw. Door Latch Is Misaligned Door Lock & Key Problems Expert advice on how to repair problems with stuck or frozen door locks, keys that don’t work, and latches that don’t latch. Many door knob and lockset problems can be corrected before they become so serious that the lockset does not work at all. Often, a malfunctioning latch assembly or lock mechanism causes the problem. An improperly functioning latch may be the result of a poorly fitting door. The lock mechanism may not work simply because the lock is dirty or dry and needs to be lubricated with graphite (do not use any type of oil because this will gum-up the works). For serious lock problems, it is usually best to call a or to replace the lock entirely. Most interior door knobs are relatively inexpensive to replace; it doesn’t really pay to have these professionally repaired unless they are special.

Exterior latches and locksets, on the other hand, can be very pricey. If you need a pro to fix problems with a high-quality door knob or lockset, removing the hardware and taking it to a locksmith is usually far less expensive than having the come to you. If a door latch does not operate smoothly, the latch bolt on the door may not be lined up properly with the strike plate on the doorjamb. Repairs range from making minor latch adjustments to repositioning the door. If the latch does not catch, close the door slowly to watch how the latch bolt meets the strike plate. The bolt may be positioned above, below, or to one side of the strike plate. (Scars on the strike plate will show where it is misaligned.) It is also possible the door has shrunk and the latch no longer reaches the strike plate. Once you have figured out the problem, try one of the methods shown here. For less than a 1/8-inch misalignment of the latch bolt and strike plate, file the inside edges of the plate to enlarge the opening.

If the latch does not reach the strike plate, shim out the plate, or add another strike plate. If the latch still will not reach, shim out the door’s hinges. Replace the door with a wider one as a last resort. For more than a 1/8-inch misalignment, remove the strike plate and extend the mortise higher or lower as necessary. Replace the plate, fill the gap at the top or bottom with wood putty, and refinish. Doorknobs may become loose over time. Methods of tightening them depend upon the type of lockset. You can tighten a simple interior mortise lockset like the one shown at left as follows: 1) Loosen the setscrew on the knob’s shank. 2) Hold the knob on the other side of the door, and turn the loose knob clockwise until it fits snugly. Then tighten the screw until you feel it resting against the flat side of the spindle. The knob should turn freely. 3) If this does not help, remove the knob and check the spindle; if the spindle is worn, it must be replaced.

If the whole lockset is worn, it is best to replace it entirely. Door latches and locks are somewhat complex pieces of hardware with several working parts that can go wrong and cause them to be unworkable or balky. For helpful do-it-yourself repair techniques for fixing common lock and latch problems, please see How to Repair Door Locks. If your door key doesn’t work right, the first and most obvious step is to be sure you’re using the right key. Once you get the door open, try the key again. If it works easily, the deadbolt isn’t engaging the strike plate properly. If it doesn’t work any easier, lubricate the lock with graphite. Then spray a little graphite onto the key and try it several times. If the key turns but doesn’t unlock the lock, disassemble the lock so that you can be sure the cam or tang is properly engaged with the bolt. Replace any broken parts and reassemble the lock. Is the lock frozen? If the key won’t go into the lock, ask yourself if the weather is cold enough for the lock to be frozen.

If it is, you can heat the key and insert it gradually into the keyway. Repeat heating and inserting the key until the ice has melted. Or you can use a lock de-icer, as discussed below under Door Lock Works Slowly. Is the key new? A new key that won’t go in or work properly may have rough spots that need to be filed off. To find them, hold the key over a candle to blacken it with soot and then turn it very slightly in the lock and remove it. File down any shiny areas where the soot was removed by the rough spots. Exterior locks can freeze, interior locks get dirty, and small internal parts eventually wear out or break. Before you buy a replacement lock, try some quick remedies: Put some graphite into the keyhole, either by squeezing it from a tube or dusting it onto a key, and then operate the lock a few times to work the graphite into the mechanism. Lock de-icers contain alcohol and other lubricants that help to dissolve gummy, dirty deposits. The last resort is to disassemble the lock to see if something has jammed or is broken—you may be able to set it straight or replace the part without buying a whole new lock.

A cylinder turns when the setscrew(s) meant to hold it in place become loose or broken. Mortise lockset: Remove the faceplate (if there is one) at the door’s edge and locate the one or two cylinder setscrews. They should be in line with the center of the cylinder. Tighten the setscrew(s) by turning clockwise—be sure they engage the slot that runs along the edge of the cylinder (the key slot should be perfectly vertical). Surface-mounted rim lock: Unscrew and remove the cover, called a “case.” Tighten the cylinder setscrews. When a door latch doesn’t click into position, it usually means the latch and the strike plate are out of alignment. Tighten the hinge screws and then try adjusting the strike plate by loosening its screws and shifting it slightly. When possible, it’s easier to file the slot in the strike plate a little bit so that it will receive the latch. Shifting the strike plate’s position usually involves mortising the jamb, filling part of the old mortise, and so forth.

You can also solve misalignment by replacing the strike plate with an adjustable one. A latch can stick for many reasons, most of which are easily fixed. Check that the hinge screws are tight. If the door is out of alignment, the latch will bind. Also check the knob and lock assembly for loose screws or misalignment. Finally, look closely at the strike on the door jamb—if it’s blocked or out of adjustment, the latch won’t run freely in and out. The chances are good that the bolt is having a hard time finding the throat in the strike plate. Be sure the strike plate is secure and in reasonable alignment with the bolt. You can file the edges of the strike plate a little, and even slightly round the edges of the deadbolt’s end. If this doesn’t work, you’ll probably have to remove the strike plate, fill the screw holes with glue and wood matchsticks, reposition it properly, and rescrew it in. Using pliers, try to grip and pull the key straight out. If you can’t get a grip even with needle-nose pliers, cut off a coping saw blade and, with the teeth pointed outward, insert the blade into the keyway and try to hook and drag the key out.