upvc back door lock

Three hook and two anti lift bolts Three roller cams as standard Secure by Design product Twin spindle/split spindle and lever/lever operation options Three Sintered Steel Hooks Outer Hooks BI Directional Two Steel Anti Lift Bolts PZ 92mm OR 92/62mm Twin Spindle Options Sprung Gear Box as Standard Three Roller Cams offering =/- 1mm Compression Adjustment Extendable with 300mm extension pieces Tested to 100,000 cycles 10 year mechanical guarantee Minimum of 240 hours salt spray testing exceeding BSEN 1670:2007 Snib as standard on all locks Excalibur twin spindle door lock Excalibur short back plate door lock Excalibur split spindle door lock Excalibur twin spindle slave door lock Excalibur short back plate slave door lock Shoot bolt extensions (pair) One piece keep LH/RH Latch, hook, roller keep LH/RH Hook, anti lift, roller keep (pair) Single non adjustable shoot bolt keep (pair)

300mm extension roller cam
andersen gliding door lock parts The Excalibur multipoint door lock system was designed to meet the most rigorous standards for security. Excalibur door lock features three hooks and two steel anti lift bolts as standard. Smooth operation is ensured by three adjustable roller cams. Alignment marks for ease of fitting. Sprung gearbox as standard. Top and bottom shoot bolts can be added to all lock options. Three hook and two anti lift bolts Minimum of 240 hours salt spray testing exceeding BSEN 1670:2007 Replacement multipoint locks for UPVC & composite doors Multipoint locks are a key feature of any UPVC front or back door. These locks are manufactured by a number of companies and it is important to ensure that you purchase the correct multipoint lock for your UPVC door. There are a number of key features to look for when working out which is the correct replacement door lock and this guide on how to identify your multipoint UPVC door lock should provide all of the guidance that you need.

We are always happy to offer more technical advice and reassurance should you require: why not email us a photo, or give us a call? Replacing a multipoint door lock is a relatively straightforward job: and we're working on a video to show the step-by-step process. If you need any advice in the meantime please call us for more information. AGB 2 hook 3 roller multipoint lock Asgard multipoint lock for composite doors Avantis 2 hook 2 roller multipoint lock Avantis 2 hook multipoint lock AVC keep for 2 hook 4 roller multipoint lock Avocet 2 deadbolt 4 roller multipoint lock Avocet 2 hook 2 roller multipoint lock Avocet 2 hook 2 roller multipoint lock keep Avocet 2 hook 4 roller multipoint lock Avocet multipoint lock for composite doors Elite 2 hook 4 roller multipoint lock ERA Saracen 2 large hook 2 roller multipoint lock ERA Saracen 2 small hook multipoint lock ERA Vectis 2 hook 2 roller multipoint lock Fab & Fix 3 hook 3 roller multipoint lock

The previous pages have concentrated mainly on doors made from timber, because there are still millions of them out there and some of the work can be easily done by you. It is fair to say though that during the past 25 years or more many timber doors have been replaced by doors made from a wide variety of materials, which require quite different locking mechanisms and hardware. Most of the replacement doors you buy today will be complete doorsets; that is the door, the frame and the hardware. If you are replacing your doors my advice is always to buy enhanced security doorsets, because once you have bought them there is nothing extra you will need to do; it’s a sort of ‘job done’. The standard to look out for is: PAS 24:2012 Enhanced security performance requirements for doorsets and windows in the UK. External doorsets and windows intended to offer a level of security suitable for dwellings and other buildings exposed to comparable risk. PAS 24: 2007 +A2: 2011 Enhanced security performance requirements for door assemblies.

Doors to this standard can be made from U-PVC, aluminium, steel, timber and composite with UPVC, fibreglass, aluminium or steel facings. (See Enhanced security doorsets ) Here are a few things that can be done to improve the security of existing doors. Most of the locks on replacement doors rely on a ‘euro' profile cylinder or ‘oval’ profile cylinder to operate the locking mechanism. In recent years there has been a steady increase in the numbers of burglaries where these cylinders have been attacked to gain entry. The police and security industry have known about these problems for several years, but because in the early days the techniques were used rarely and were confined to only a few locations around the UK, these problems were deliberately not broadcast to the public at large for fear of making the problem a lot worse. Instead, the security industry quietly and quickly developed measures to protect the cylinders from these attacks. With the methods of attack now widely broadcast across the internet your need to upgrade your door locks and associated hardware has become a lot more important.

Go to Cylinder snapping and bumping for much more information and advice See DIRECTORY for anti-snap cyclinders Many thousands of these have been installed into people’s homes and some of the older ones have quite poor security. In fact it’s not unusual to find catches made from plastic! Some of them can also be lifted off their tracks using the garden spade and back in the 70s and 80s this type of forced entry was very common. Nowadays you can buy sliding doors that have been certificated to PAS 24:2012 and so please make sure that if you are going to replace them you buy ones to that standard. (See Enhanced security doorsets ) For existing doors there are two things you can do immediately to improve the security. The first thing is to make sure they cannot be lifted off their tracks. You can stop this from happening by opening the sliding door and fitting a timber batten into the top frame to further limit the distance by which the door can be lifted.

The locking can be improved by fitting a pair of patio door locks. One can be fitted either into the bottom frame immediately next to the fixed door or onto the stile of the fixed door. A second patio door lock can be fitted in the same locations but at the top of the fixed door. Although these locks will prevent sliding and lifting I would still use the batten to prevent lifting just in case. The locks are fitted into these positions because if force is applied then the locks are forced into the fixed door. If they were fitted onto the other side the forces applied could pull them out. You will almost certainly have to use self tapping screws to fix these devices (follow the instructions on the packet very carefully) and make sure you don’t accidently hit the glass or you’ll have a big bill to pay. Most insurers specify 5 lever or BS 3621 (BS 8621 or BS 10621) mortice and or rim nightlatches on your doors, unless they have multipoint locking or are PAS 24 enhanced security doorsets.

So what do you do if you want to keep the old door and upgrade the locks? Unless you know exactly what you are doing then I would again strongly advise you to get the locksmith around. Some aluminium front doors from the 1970s require rather slim fitting mortice locks, which may not be available from the DIY store and upgrading old U-PVC doors requires a great of knowhow. It is of course possible to fit additional locks or use different lock configurations on exisiting and new timber doors to gain some additional security. Take my sister-in-law's old flat door, which was solid core, but only had a roller bolt latch in the centre. My mate, a master locksmith, fitted a pair of BS 8621 mortice locks. The bottom one had the keyhole about 500mm up from the bottom of the door and the other one had the keyhole about 400mm from the top of the door. He fitted a pair of hinge bolts and finished the improvements off with both London and Birmingham frame reinforcement bars and a grille on the inside of the small glazed panel.