I've never been a fan of the bi-fold doors on our bedroom closet. My biggest complaint is that when the doors are open, as you see in the second photo, portions of the closet are almost inaccessible. And with two vain men sharing one small closet, we need all the space we can get! Rather than install new doors I decided to convert these bi-fold doors into swing-out doors. The only supplies I needed to convert the doors were a 1" x 3" x 4' board, 2 packages of 3" mending braces, and 2 packages of magnetic catches. These few supplies came to a total of $9.30. To convert the door, I removed the top roller from the door and opened it out. Then, with the door open, I screwed three mending braces on each door - one brace at the top of the door, one in the middle, and one near the bottom (photos 3 and 4). These mending braces have effectively turned the two panels that would normally fold together into one solid door. Now that I have a solid door, the next step is to create a new closure for it.

This is where the magnetic catches and the 1" x 3" board come in. front door furniture hertfordshireI screwed the magnetic catch to the top, inside corner of the door (photo 5). sliding door handle vw busThen I installed the 1" x 3" board to the top of the door frame (photo 7). car window motor repair austin txAfter lining up the exact placement, I installed the "L" strike plate for the magnetic catch to the bottom of the board (photo 6). 96 mustang door panels for saleNow, when the door closes, the magnet meets the strike plate!floor spring door closer price india

Next week I'll show you how this door conversion has increased the storage options in our little closet.sliding door track roller rail coversThe page you were looking for was not found!screen door locks brisbane As with any good building project, things tend to get misplaced from time to time... and the page you requested seems to be one of them. For you technical types, this is what's called a 404 error. You can try going to our home page and starting over, or look through the links up above- what you seek could be right there!White PrimedPrimed FreefoldPrimed RoomPattern 10Doors GoogleWindows GoogleLivingroomsClear Glass10 ClearForwardshould we have internal bi-fold to mirror the external? XL Joinery Internal White Primed Freefold Door System Most sliding closet doors hang by rollers from a track above.

Bifold doors are anchored at the bottom and top of one side. On the opposite side a guide pin slides through a top channel. Parts for these doors are readily available at home centers, hardware stores, or online. If you have a sliding closet door that glides on a bottom track, clean the track with a damp cloth to ensure smooth gliding. Lubricate the rollers but not the track, because lubricant will act as a magnet for dust. Remove a door by lifting and tilting the bottom out. If a roller is stuck, unscrew and remove it. If cleaning does not solve the problem, replace the roller unit. An hour or less for most repairs, once you have the parts in hand Screwdriver, adjustable wrench, pliers, drill Clear the area and make sure there are no obstructions hindering door operation. Closet door parts, which come with mounting screws and other hardware Bifold doors are light (some are louvered and some are hollow-core), so the hardware is not heavy-duty. A top pin, which is spring-loaded so you can lift the door up and out, inserts into a bracket that can be moved to the left or right.

The bottom pin rests in a bracket with a number of setting points for easy adjustment. The top roller slides through a track. Bifold doors should be parallel with the frame and each other when there are double bifolds in an opening. A bifold should close snugly but not too tightly. To adjust the door's position at the bottom, simply lift at the bottom and move the pin over to another position on the bracket. To adjust the top position, partially open the door. Loosen the bracket's screw, slide the door over, and tighten the screw. To adjust a bifold's height, use an adjustable wrench, a pair of pliers, or the wrench that comes with the hardware. Twist the nut surrounding the pin to raise or lower the door. If the bracket is too low (or sunk below carpeting), remove the door and the bracket. Cut a shim to fit under the bracket and reinstall the bracket. Repair parts are easily installed; some simply push into holes, while others attach with a screw or two. If a pin or roller hole is enlarged or the door is cracked, a replacement part may not anchor securely.

Buy a repair part with a flange that can be screwed to either side of the hole. If the door is badly damaged, replace it. To adjust the height of a hanging slider, loosen the adjusting screws on a roller bracket, move the door up or down, and retighten the screws. If your roller bracket is not adjustable, buy replacement brackets. The doors slide through a bottom guide on the floor. If the guide is out of alignment, adjust the guide and drive longer screws. If the guide is not high enough to capture the doors, place a small shim under the guide. To remove a hanging closet door, remove the guide. Look for access slots on the track. Slide the rollers to the slots, lift the door, and tilt the bottom out. Bifold doors are much like any doors, only connected into pairs with hinges and hung on a track. What makes them look good and work well are a solid, heavy construction and sturdy and carefully adjusted hardware. The heft of the doors is what keeps them from shuddering when you open them.

So it's best to look for solid–core or solid–wood doors, which will feel more substantial than hollow–core doors. (Solid doors are also easier to trim if any part of your door opening is out of square.) Then, in order to handle the weight of these heavier doors, you'll need a track that includes a wheeled mechanism, which allows the doors to glide smoothly rather than shimmy along the track. The most difficult—and sometimes most frustrating—part of the installation is attaching and adjusting all the hardware. The track, the pivots, the hinges all have to be assembled just so, and it's worth taking the time to double–check every measurement and position to be sure each piece is in the right place and facing the right way. Finish or paint the doors before starting. Label the doors to show the order they'll be installed and which sides face out. Take a jamb side door and mark its inner edge 11 inches from the bottom, 7 inches from the top, and centered between the two.

Place the door on edge with the marks facing up. Take the lower half of a hinge and align its bottom with the bottom mark, its knuckles facing back and flush to the edge. Use a self?centering bit to drill pilot holes through the hinge holes. Screw on the hinge plate. Attach the top and middle hinges, on their marks. Place the leading (inner) door on edge, facing back-to-back with the first door. Align the doors evenly against a square, then put the hinges together. Screw the hinge plates to the leading door. Repeat on the second pair of doors. Attach the track hardware Fasten the pivot plates (the pins that fit into the track and the floor bracket), and the locking arms (the hooks that slide along the track) to the top and bottom of each set of doors. The pivot plates go on the tops and bottoms of the jamb–side doors, and the locking arm on the tops of the leading doors. Each kit requires its hardware to be uniquely positioned, so check the diagrams that come with yours for exact measurements and placements.

These will tell you, for example, not only how far a pivot plate should be from the door edges around it but also where its pin should be in relation to the door's edges. Adhering to all the given dimensions ensures that no piece goes on backward. Use a hacksaw to cut the track to length to fit the closet opening. Slide the hanging hardware into the track—the small stops in the center, then around them the track hangers with wheels, and finally the pivot socket on the outside. Attach the track to the door header with the screws provided. Position the track 1 inch in from the front edge of the header. This will give you enough room to hide the track with trim without limiting the door action. Tip:Don't tighten the hardware onto the track. It will be easier to hang the doors later if the pieces are loose. Position the floor bracket Use the measurements supplied by the manufacturer to position the floor bracket next to the door jamb. Hang a plumb bob from the center of the track above the floor bracket to align the pin hole in the bracket front to back.

This will ensure that the doors are plumb when installed. Outline the bracket in pencil to mark its exact location. Screw the bracket in place, then remove the screws and set the bracket and screws aside. Bring the doors to the track and lift the jamb side to hook the pin of the top pivot plate into the pivot socket. Make sure the pin is all the way in, then push the lever on the side of the socket to lock it in place. Slot the pin from the track hanger into the locking arm on the leading door. Twist the arm to lock it into place. With the doors closed, swing them forward enough to catch the floor bracket in the bottom pivot pin. Attach the floor bracket Swing the doors back into place and align the floor bracket with the pencil marks. Use a flexible bit extender to screw down the bracket. Hang the other set of doors. Close both sets and adjust them along the track to even up the reveal around them. Then, using the wrench provided with the hardware, tighten the pivot sockets on the ends of the track and the small stops in the center.

Tip: Ask a helper to give you a hand in lifting and holding the doors, which can be unwieldy. Attach the door aligner From inside the closet and with the doors closed, mount the door aligners between the two leading doors, 6 inches up from the floor. The aligners catch when the doors are closed, keeping the door faces flush with each other. From outside the closet, check the alignment. Adjust the track hardware as necessary to keep the reveal around the doors even. Install the door pulls For flat doors, measure 36 inches from the floor on each leading door. Then mark the center, side-to-side, at that height. For paneled doors, find the center of the middle rail instead. Hold a straightedge diagonally from corner to corner on the rail, draw a line in the middle, then switch to the other diagonal and cross the line. The X marks the rail's center. Drill 3/16?inch holes at each mark and screw on door pulls. Cut a piece of 1x2 stock the width of the closet opening to conceal the track.