Sign up or log in to customize your list. We've got a closet with a pair of overlapping sliding doors that hang, by their wheels, on a top-mounted rack. There's a bottom guide screwed to the floor that keeps the doors lined up. But unless a door is opened carefully and slowly, one or both of its wheels come off the track. Are there any tricks or adjustments I can make to prevent this? I do a lot of remodels and the easiest way to make a bedroom look newer is take out the old hollow doors or mirrored doors and put in 6 panels. Not many closets are square either. The first thing you need to do is use the rolling mechanism to adjust the door meet the wall as good as you can. You can angle the rollers and move them up and down. Obviously your door needs to slide on the floor so you have to play with this a little. But try to get each door to match its outside wall.These only cost a couple dollars at big box and if you are taking old ones out, there is no extra work. For instance the roller in Mazura's answer isn't as adjustable as the normal roller you would get at big box.

You want a little friction on the flooring... But that only works with carpet. If closet doors are flung open the pressure of the roller will eventually affect the track each time it jumps off. So get the doors a little lower. Make sure the rollers are about 3-4 inches from the outside of each door. The closer to the middle your rollers are, the easier for them to jump. Get a good light/flashlight and inspect your tracks. Most tracks are about the same quality (I am sure there are high end ones but I haven't seen them). You can have two problems with the track. First the track can be angled down. This just happens with the weight of the door over time. It actually doesn't hurt to have it angled up slightly (open side of track). For this use a wood block and hammer. The other thing that goes wrong is the lip itself becomes deformed or it get pushed down. I would simply tap this into place with a hammer. For more deformed sections I break out the pliers. If I am having an issue I go through the whole track with pliers.

Grease the wheels and track. Buy new rollers if adjustments do not avail you. To remove the door, disengage the lower track. Standing outside, tilt the bottom of door towards you. Lift slightly and the door should fall off. Insure the track is free of debris. Measure your roller arm carefully, Prime Line Products has many types and sizes. Your wheels probably don't look like this anymore, on Ebay: Check the area where the doors run along the bottom ,on many older homes the bottom of the door runs on a small piece of iron known as a sled. If any debris plaster etc. is in the doors glide path it will lift the door when closing and will knock the roller off the track. Just use a flashlight in one hand and a long thin stick (yard stick) in the other hand and push any debris over to the side (left and right) and clear the doors path and you should be ok. Also to get the roller back on track lift the door at the bottom with a large flat head screwdriver and a block of wood and wiggle the door left, right, in and out until the roller seats on the rail.

This may take many attempts unless you get lucky. Good luck , it's a real pain , but better the tearing your walls out .sliding screen door alignment Most high end sliding door hardware has captive wheels. lowes screen door protectorthat means the track has a top edge as well as a bottom edge.garage door repair denver nc While changing tracks is a project, it should solve the problem.interior wood doors albertaI've long wanted to replace our bulky old shower doors with a curtain in our home's one-and-only family bathroom. door handles uk ltd accrington

This shower sees a lot of action, from our daily showers to my son's baths. A curtain eliminates that bottom rail, making it much easier to give baths. garage door sensor stuckAnd left open when not in use, the room now expands larger than before. outdoor bar stools san marcos caI was daunted by the idea of dealing with holes in the wall (and possibly the tub!), but I'm so glad I took the plunge: Caulk remover (I used Motsenbockers Lift Off gel) Shower curtain (a liner at minimum, plus outer decorative curtain if you like) Plastic scraper or an old credit card 1. Remove the shower doors from the track. Mine lifted up and out from a top track. The doors can be heavy, so get help on this part if you need it. 2. Remove all screws from the shower door frame. My frame had three screws on each side and zero in the bottom track (jackpot!).

There actually was one small screw in the bottom track that was the reason I put off removing the doors for so long (in fear of leaving a hole in the bathtub), but it turned out to just be a set screw for the guide on the track. So, if that's holding you back, do a little investigative work to determine whether the screw actually penetrates the tub body. 3. Carefully cut any caulked joints between the frame and the walls/ tub. Be sure to hold the knife parallel to the wall and tub, not perpendicular. You don't want to leave cuts in the wall and tub surfaces, you just want to separate the frame from the wall. 4. Pop off the top track. Mine was not attached to the rest of the frame at all, it was only sitting in place on top of the side frames. A simple jolt with the palm of my hand loosened it and it lifted out easily. 5. Remove the side frames. Have your utility knife handy in case you need to cut a little more caulk as you pull the frames from the walls. There will be caulk left behind on the tile - don't worry.

6. Remove the bottom rail from the tub. Prepare yourself - this is going to yucky! But this moment is also liberating; seeing your tub free of cumbersome metal frames. Think of it as having braces removed! 7. Scrape any caulk you can from the tub and the wall tiles. This is where an old credit card can come in handy - I found it most effective in scraping up the discolored caulking left behind once the door frames were removed. You likely won't get all of the caulk removed in this step, but that's okay! Just get as much as you can without damaging any surfaces. 8. Use caulk remover according to packaging directions on any stubborn spots. I applied a gel to the strips stuck on the tub, let it sit a few minutes, then scraped again with the plastic card. (As a side note, I skipped this step on the wall tiles, as my tiles are unfortunately painted. So, the caulk peeled right off of my walls, along with strips of paint, revealing pink tiles beneath the paint. Because of this, I left strips of caulk on the walls in some places, as I plan to replace the tile down the road.

In the meantime, I will likely peel off the rest of caulk and touch up the tile paint, but this wasn't done as a part of this project.) Also, our tub surface beneath the old track is pretty rough, but any discoloration came off with this step. There are still pocks in the surface, but I far prefer them to the constantly-dirty old shower door frame! 9. Fill the screw holes in the walls. This can be done in a few ways: with special plugs inserted into the holes, or with silicone caulk matching your tile. I chose the latter, and filled the holes with white silicone caulk. This is where the old credit card comes in handy again. Fill the holes with silicone caulk then remove excess with that nifty card! Allow the caulk to set for 8 hours before exposing to moisture. If the holes have plastic anchors in them (mine did), just pull them out with a pair of needle nosed pliers before filling them. 10. Hang that glorious new rod and curtain! I love Bed Bath and Beyond's cheap polyester fabric shower curtain liners, so that's what I've used here.