Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top We are planning a major house refurbishment, and in particular changing doors to two bedrooms. Our architect came up with this idea to put really wide sliding doors in, to get nice space after they are opened. I am a bit concerned with sound proofing though. Is it possible to make sliding doors reasonably soundproof? If you have the money there are some fantastic barn door style sliding doors made of solid wood that should give you better sound deadening than a normal hollow core interior door. Any door made of solid wood or even foam core doors will perform better than glass or hollow core doors as far as sound deadening is concerned. The thicker the better. Pretty is one thing but practical is another. I think solid wood does both. The problem of soundproofing is a very small hole in the soundproofing lets lots of noise thru.

If for instance the track the sliding door travels has a felt strip or thin rubber strip along its length, that will let lots of sound thru as it is mostly air or very thin. Keep that in mind. Doors typically have an air gap under them that allows air from the AC to flow out of the room to the return. This gap under the door really affects the soundproofing. If you get a sliding door make sure it is double pane. Double panes drastically reduce noise transfer and will make a huge difference like it does on Mercedes car windows. I put lots of effect in soundproofing a home theater room and floated walls and the floor, installed solid core interior doors, put a separate AC return in the room to allow for a sealed door, plus added thick 50 mil if I remember correctly vinyl in the walls. Reduced almost all high pitched noise but only half to 2/3rds of the mid and low noises. It made a difference but not as much as I'd hope. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google Sign up using Email and Password

Post as a guest By posting your answer, you agree to the privacy policy and terms of service. Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged doors noise noise-reduction or ask your own question.We Offer a Great Selection!  Soundproof sliding glass doors are as effective as our soundproof windows in stopping noise. Like our soundproof windows, what we do is add a second sliding glass door that does even more for sound and security. Our soundproof doors can be mounted inside or outside your existing sliding glass door. The room with the sliding glass door is almost always in the coldest and draftiest room in your home. The glass area and the less-than-ideal-seals are usually the reason. With our second sliding glass door, draftiness is virtually eliminated. The room may become the cosiest and most comfortable room in the home! Soundproof Sliding Glass Door Advantages Noise reductions beyond 75%. Insulation qualities apply to our sliding glass doors in addition to our soundproof windows.

Security – Soundproof sliding glass doors provide a substantial benefit. Because we use laminated glass, security is increased significantly. Sliding glass doors normally have tempered glass which can be easily broken by an intruder. Laminated glass is very difficult to break through – the noise and time it takes to break make it very difficult for a burglar. See our Security page for more information on additional benefits. Our sliding glass doors are available in white, brown and aluminum, which can be very convenient to satisfying your decorating needs, or your home owner’s association. garage door opener parts montrealOther custom colors are available.garage door repair in mercer county nj The sliding glass door was installed on the outside of the residence to soundproof the existing swing-open style exterior door.interior barn doors sacramento

Also see our pages on soundproof interior door panels and sample soundproof windows.BarndoorsLaundryroomHomeideasThe DoorsCool DoorsNeat DoorDiy DoorsLuv DoorsDoors And FloorsForwardI would love this door between the kitchen and living room once the pantry is in and the TV wall is in the living room.This is All About Controlling Sound and Reducing Noise coming through Doors. We sell hundreds of these door bottom gap sealers to hotels, motels, bed and breakfasts and apartment buildings  for cheap door soundproofing – take a tip from them!review biometric door lock After dealing with the exterior sound coming thru  windows,  sound control efforts in a room should focus on the door: a typical interior  hollow core door will pass sound quite readily.  patio door lock fault(An STC of much less than 20- this means conversation can easily be heard thru it).genie garage door opener installation guide

The door should entirely be replaced with a solid, exterior door, the thickest you can find.  “MDF” (Medium Density Fiberboard) doors are cheap and have good sound blocking qualities and available from Builders Supply like Home Depot. Get a door without the recessed decorative panels- they reduce the thickness of the door.  If it’s important to have them,  buy some that you can attach onto the door.  Make sure the door is well fitted to the frame, no gaps or crevices for sound to migrate through. pocket door lock passageIf there are  gaps, use our closed cell PVC tape,  (not from the hardware store). The door should be sealed off as if it was 40 degrees below zero on one side.  If it has a gap over 1/4″ at the bottom, use our door sweep seal, (a metal strip with a rubber flap) mounted to it, available from us.  Set it to just brush the floor.     If your door is a standard 36″ wide, you can get it and a roll of sealing tape for $36 Free Shipping!

A seal is essential to properly soundproof a door. Our soundproofing seal is a rubber loop, carefully cut to your door width size, modified by us with sealed ends for added performance in creating a dead air space within the loop. We’ll cut this to an exact fit for  your door if you’ll give us the measurement of the width of the door. You will also receive the screws to mount it to your door.  Depending on if it’s metal, you’ll need to drill pilot holes, if wood you won’t.  Usually, only a screwdriver and a few minutes is needed to install this very much needed attachment to block sound from coming from underneath your door. Some notes about our “Soundproof Door Sweep”: (The part that should seal the door bottom against sound and that fits on the edge of the bottom of the door). Since our doorsweep only seals up to a 3/4′ gap, a transom seal should be used from the hardware store that fits on the floor across the bottom of the doorway.  Use this kind if you have a huge gap.

Try to get one with a rubber flap. (Mechanical ones are expensive and will eventually fail). Note, the illustration above would tend to make some believe the seal fits somewhat under the bottom of the door- not so- it just hangs down and does not slide under the door! Remember- it won’t close the bottom door gap over 3/4″,   if more, use  the above mentioned threshold to take up some of the gap or build down the bottom of the door with a wood strip. Sometimes it may take both! This wood strip was mounted with glue and screws using drilled pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood.  It was then painted to match the door finish. The seal should lightly brush the floor, but a 1/4″ gap is acceptable when you are done. Your new door may still need sound insulation. Use 1/8″ MLV with 1/4″ closed  cell   foam, bonded to it. Then cover with “Super Soundproofing acoustical mat”.    Usually 1″ thick will suffice. Cut it a bit oversize to cover the seam of the door at the  frame to help seal it. 

You can use the mat with the adhesive backing but you may not be able to remove it later. A typical door 3′ X 8′ is 36 sq. ft. so 8′ of the 4′  wide MLV will cover it. 9′ of the 4’X1″ foam will be needed. If there’s a lot of sound still coming through, consider hanging a “Mass Loaded Curtain” (barrier) or a acoustical curtain over the door and frame. You could use gaskets that are ordinary thermal sealing gasketing foam strips from the hardware store, but far better results can be had if you use our “Super Soundproofing 1/8” Thick Self-Adhesive Tape” , because it is a closed cell material, will seal better and is much more durable. It is a gray tape in widths of 1/4″, 3/8″ & 1/2″ for door sealing.  Apply strips on top of each other to build up and close wide gaps. Think you can’t replace the door with your door, Landlord problem? You can always put his door aside and rehang it when you leave. Better, create an “Airlock door system” by leaving his door in place and adding another door to the frame, opening the opposite way.

(Solid core, of course!) TIP: Remove the molding from around (use care to not split it!), the door and check the gap between the frame of the door and the rough framing.  Usually you’ll find there is nothing there!  Many times this empty space of the door frame has no insulation at all,  just covered by two pieces of wood molding. Pack the area with our Super Soundproofing Mat (you can order just a few feet, we have no minimums), or use our caulk, and cover the gap with our lead tape, then replace the molding. This tip applies to windows too! (Do not use expandable foam as for thermal insulation. It will be worse than the airgap, establishing a soundpath). Sliding doors have little or no acoustical qualities at all and are best replaced with one that has, or if not possible, covered with a hanging sound barrier such as curtains, etc. If it’s a glass patio door, you could cover part of it with soundproofing mat and make a holding panel with mat attached to it to cover the door that moves when it’s shut.

Another option is to add another patio door with a new frame. This double door will block a lot of sound by trapping air between the door panels. Commercially available soundproofing sliding glass doors can be had .  But you can do-it-yourself!Curtains hung across open doorframes usually don’t perform well acoustically, but do some sound blocking if they are heavy and fitted well to the frame. If made of clear plastic and cut into strips for egress, the strips need to be overlapped about 50%. When using clear plastic, use the heaviest you can, we have it in up to .160 thicknesses. Acoustical curtains perform about the same. If possible, consider hanging curtains on BOTH sides of the doorway for greatly improved sound reduction. This is because the dead air trapped there works for you. Such curtain installations should touch the floor. Use double-sided tape to attach the curtains to the wall at the edges to help seal the curtain. Garage doors are another problem, especially bad if they are segmented doors.