replace door lock 2004 honda civic

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We recommend using a small flathead screwdriver to disengage the rod clip.
outdoor patio furniture honolulu Step 5: Disconnect the wiring harness attached to the back of the interior door handle.
garage door screen 8x10 Step 6: You can now fully remove the interior door handle. Step 7: Using a small Phillips screwdriver, loosen and remove the small Phillips screws that hold the automatic locking switch to the assembly. Step 8: Mount the locking switch to the new interior door handle by tightening the Phillips screws (2). Step 9: Connect the wiring harness to the interior door handle, engage the locking rod to the back of the assembly, and mount the handle by tightening the Phillips mounting screws (2). Step 10: Reattach the small trim panel inside the interior door handle.

These Part Change / Installation Instructions Apply to: 01 2001, 02 2002, 03 2003, 04 2004, 05 2005 Honda Civic Replacement InstructionsMotor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top I have a 2009 Honda Accord with approximately 95k miles. About 2 years ago, I began having periodic trouble with the rear driver's side door lock. All other doors would lock/unlock with the power locks just fine except for that one. A few weeks ago, I began having intermittent problems with the rear passenger side lock. Now, the front driver's side lock has stopped working as well. I also notice that when I accelerate from a stop (like at a stop sign or red light) I hear the power locks attempt to lock the doors in the same way it would when you first start the car. It does this even though I have manually locked all of the doors. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Any idea what could be causing this? Is it possible this is something as simple as a fuse? Or does it sound like a more expensive problem? Any idea how expensive? I don't think it's necessarily a wiring problem. Here are my thoughts, having just rebuilt two door lock actuators in one of my vehicles: First - the rear driver side door sounds like the door lock actuator motor is dead. Second - the other issues may or may not be related to the actuators. Can you answer this, do the intermittent problems happen only when using the keyfob? i.e. If using the key to lock/unlock works, and the interior manual locks work, and the interior switches work - then you just need a new battery for the fob. Otherwise it may be a door lock actuator - start at the driver's door, as sometimes the others are dependant upon this actuator. Third - with the locks activating while driving, this could be due to a broken or disconnected rod that connects to the actuator. The door lock actuator is usually connected to some rods/cables that run to the interior and exterior handles and locks.

If one of these rods comes out of place, as your driving it may be bouncing around causing the lock to trigger (it thinks the key is being turned or the interior manual lock is being switched). Again, I would look first at the driver's door for this one, but the front passenger's door might also do this. The rear doors don't usually have provisions to lock the other doors, and the wording of your original question made me thinkg it was all the doors that would lock/unlock while driving. I would start by pulling off the door panels and just looking at the door lock actuators. Is there a rod or cable hanging loose? Trace the rods/cables back - is everything connected at the other end? If so, then it may be a wiring issue. While you have the panels off, try the interior switches, exterior (key) lock (have a partner do this while you look at each door), and interior manual locks for each door. Does the actuator move with all these events? If not the actuator motor is probably bad.