Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top I need to replace the door knob for this interior door: The door knobs I've found at the stores require a 2⅛ inch hole. Mine is only 1½: Did door knobs used to be smaller? Is there some place I can find a replacement door knob that will fit my door? If I need to modify the door to fit a modern door knob, will the new hole completely overlap the old? and can I reuse the latch hole? i used a piece of plywood clamped to the door as an outer-guide. Cut a hole in the plywood, the right size (2 1/8) and then clamp it where you want the new hole in the door. Then using it as a guide on the outside of the hole saw, drill on through the door. no additional tools required beyond the 2 1/8 hole saw, and well, a c-clamp which you should have.If you need to expand the hole with the exact same center, you can get a hole saw kit that uses an arbor with multiple attachable hole saws.

Place the larger size hole saw with the smaller size inside of it, and tighten the arbor on both. The smaller hole saw acts as a guide in your existing hole. The second option is similar to Chris's suggestion. Clamp a thin piece of plywood over the hole on the door, and drill through that. Pay special attention to keeping the drill level. The plywood keeps you from sliding all over the door. Just make sure you clamp it on well. Yes, door knobs used to use smaller holes. You probably can find a replacement, but if you want to use a modern door knob, yes you can reuse. Get yourself one of these babies: It's a door knob jig - you can find them at the major box stores and they come with the appropriate drill bits. Align the jig with the existing latch hole, and then use the larger hole to enlarge the bore of the main hole. DO NOT try to enlarge the hole w/o the jig. Your hole drill center bit won't have anything to bite into (since there's a hole there already) to hold it steady when the main cutting circle hits the wood and it'll slide all over the place.

This is a fantastic investment compared to buying a new door. If the new hole location completely encloses the old hole, then it's relatively easy. With a 1.5" hole saw, cut a piece of 2x4 and plug the hole. You may need to sand or wrap it in paper to make it fit snuggly. Then you can use the 2 1/8 hole saw to cut the new hole. If you need to move the location completely, then you need to plug the hole, leaving about 1/8 to 1/4" recesses on each side, and putty/plastic wood over it. You can usually buy a cheap set of 4-5 hole saw bits for under $20. That's sufficient for occasional use. I did this today on a wood door using a Dremel with a sanding attachment on it. First I outlined in pencil where the screws hit the door and sanded out that part, first on one side of the door, and then the other. Once the screws would go through, I traced a line where the door knob would be inserted into the door (this was on the lock side only.) Since this doorknob only had semicircular pieces - top and bottom - that inserted into the door, I just reamed out the top and bottom of the existing hole until the doorknob would fit in.

Not as elegant as using a hole bit, but this was the tool I had and it worked just fine. Took a bit longer, I'm sure, but it worked. garage door company grand rapids mi(I think next time I'll buy a hole bit.)garage door sales in grand rapids miIf you are only doing one door, you can cut a plug, same thickness as the door, that you can glue into the existing hole, flush with the surfaces. garage door opener zip tieThen mark the center of the old hole, or, the new backsets (latch) measurement, usually 1-3/8" or 1-3/4", but most are adjustable for either, from the edge of the door. jeep wrangler 4 door for sale wa

Use the block for the pilot drill to center the hole saw and cut the new hole around it I did this today by using a Dewalt door lock installation jig. cost to change upvc door lockI bought this at Lowes. garage door repair paris txIt cost more than the Irwin model but I bought the Dewalt because of the clamp on the jig. shower doors for sale port elizabethIt was about $30 but I have several door knobs that are over 50 years old and need replacing. The Dewalt jig worked perfectly. Line up it up, clamp, and drill. It only took about 10 min. to drill and then mount the door knob. This tool is worth the money! Now my wife want to replace more worn door knobs. I've already been back to Lowes to buy more......

Sign up or log in Sign up using Google Sign up using Email and Password Post as a guest By posting your answer, you agree to the privacy policy and terms of service. Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged doors or ask your own question.Why did we create this guide? Because it is very difficult even for us to find any siding materials prices online. Even the big home improvement chains are horrible at providing information on their websites, and when you find the product you like, you won’t know how much material you will get for a given price. In this guide, we make Vinyl Siding Prices simple! See costs in your area Start Here - Enter Your Zip Code We will walk you through the cost of vinyl siding materials and installation. Most vinyl siding materials are divided into three groups: Clapboard / dutch lap siding, cedar shingles impression siding, and specialty vinyl siding that resembles brick or natural stone – faced finish.

Clapboard and Dutch-lap siding is the horizontal panels siding that resembles cedar horizontal siding, and comes in three thickness groups, which make it low-end, midrange and high-end siding materials. Siding Installation can be very simple and very complicated at the same time. Basically, most contractors will charge a set amount per square of siding installed, and you can use our siding estimator to calculate your siding installation cost. In a nutshell, a typical siding contractor will charge somewhere between $450-550 per square installed (more for premium siding, difficult installation and other extras). Also, you need to account for tear-off (typically old plastic siding, wood shingles / clapboard or aluminum siding), though if you have wooden siding, it really makes no sense to remove it. You should just install insulation over wood siding and apply vinyl siding on top. Also, the number of window and door wraps will make a difference in the overall cost. Controversial nature of the siding business:

The “premium siding places” such as Sears, Home Depot, Lowe’s, Bil-Ray (markets at BJ’s Club now) and other local “premium” siding and home improvement joints will try to up-sell you into almost $1000 per square territory, telling you how they stand behind their work and so on and so forth. In reality – they employ the typical siding contractor (from above) who does the same work for just over half the cost, pay them peanuts, and there is really nothing to stand behind. Unlike roofing installation, where your roof can leak and cause tons of damages, siding can only buckle when installed incorrectly (for example if siding is nailed too tight, when a panel expands, it cannot slide/move left or right, it buckles), or some really crappy work, which you as a homeowner will notice before you issue the last payment for the job. Just make sure your contractor caulks the window copping when they install your siding (if of course you are paying them for window metal trim).

… they will Sub-out all work … Bottom line – whether you hire Joe Shmo Siding Company or a “premium joint siding company” it will be Joe Shmo or guys like them, installing your vinyl siding. Big companies do no not hire installers – they work with sub-contractors to install their siding, windows, doors, etc., and pay them on a per-square basis. And the faster the sub-contractor finishes the work (which in return, makes quality go down), the faster they can start another project. So it actually is in your interest to hire local guys vs. a big name company, because then the quality will be better (most of the time at least). How do I know? I was that Joe Shmo siding guy working for Bil-Ray – a Queens, NY Company that at the time had a Sears contract to do siding, doors and windows installation in New England, and (possibly) other regions of US. Bil-Ray lost that Sears contract around 2006-2007 due to (in my opinion) mismanagement, theft, drug abuse by management, bad overall performance, complaints, etc.

Actually, they did not tell us the exact reason why Sears did not renew their contract with Bil-Ray Aluminum, but I saw what was going on in our office (Pawtucket, RI), and I’ve seen how this business works from the inside, and yes – we got peanuts for our work (very little money that is). And oh boy, do I have some stories to tell 😀 … But these are not my stores to tell – just search for “Bil-Ray Aluminum Siding Corp” and read multiple RipOffReport and ScamBook reports about them. I want to also make 1 point – Bil Ray has done some good installs as well. And they are not the only company which is like what I describe above. I just had the privilege to work for them – I’m sure every big company listed above (and others) has similar problems with sub-quality work (pun intended). Bottom line – this is not about Bil-Ray or any other of those big guys. This is about homeowners NOT getting ripped off! Typical vinyl siding thicknesses are .042″, .044″ and .046″ respectively. F

or the purposes of this guide we will use the basic clap-board .042″ thickness vinyl siding, with 1/2″ bump-out (how much it sticks out), and we will use publicly available vinyl siding prices from national home improvement chain’s website (big orange box), which sells “generic” brand vinyl siding. Besides the siding panels, you would also need certain accessories to complete the installation and make your home look beautiful. T All these accessories are needed to complete a vinyl siding installation, though they might not be needed for every house. Still, you will always need J-channel and corner posts to conceal the edges of the siding panels. All window and door casings need J-channel trim (unless it is a new construction window or door, with a built-in J-channel). Soffit and fascia might not be necessary if you have a PVC trim on your house, but most vinyl siding jobs include these. Also, unless you are OK with having ugly holes in your siding, you probably want light and water mounts.

The cost of siding materials is calculated on a per square basis (one square is 100 sq. ft.). Square is a term in the construction industry that is used to simplify communication between contractors, suppliers and architects, and most contractors will use squares in their pricing. Vinyl siding is typically sold in cardboard boxes – 2 squares in each box – 24 panels, 12.5 feet long, with 8″ exposure (D4 or double 4″ lap). Though you can buy individual siding panels, the cost will be higher than if you buy a whole box. Prices for all white vinyl siding, trim and accessories: All trim (J-channel, F-channel, Inside and Outside Corner posts, starter and finish trim comes in 10 feet long sections. All prices for white color. Other colors typically cost 3-5% more. This list pretty much covers the siding materials prices. You will need to add you state or local sales tax to this price, at checkout. There are a few additional items you will need them to install your vinyl siding: