Many people have difficulty with frameless shower doors sticking or fitting poorly. If the door is new, the most common reason for these problems is that the frames or floors are not square or level. Most pre-made frameless doors are adjustable to about half an inch, which helps if you have slightly uneven walls. Check out how you can make these adjustments or other ways you can fix the positioning of your doors. Take your builders square and check whether the frame of the shower is aligned properly. If the frame is too out of plumb, the only fix is to use a different door, or to take off the tiles and remake it to fit. If the frame is only a small way out, you can adjust the door to fit, or adjust the clamps. Is the floor even? Again, you may need to redo the flooring if you really want to have a frameless door. If the glass door has only lately started to bump the ground as it swings, it is likely that the clamps have worked slightly loose rather than the floor being an issue.

Most shower door companies will charge you around $50 to come and adjust the door, but it is a simple job you can do yourself, especially as some doors need to be adjusted more than once a year.outdoor patio furniture richmond bc Open the door slightly and place wedges under it so the weight is supported. garage door on uneven floorThe clamps are usually tightened to the glass with Phillips head screwdrivers. bifold closet doors rollersLoosen the top hinge, and the bottom one if the glass is not snug against it. glass door repair salem oregonThen, press the door back against the hinge until it is snug.installing soft top on 2012 jeep wrangler 4 door

Before you tighten the hinge clamp, squeeze some locktite under it. If necessary, remove the hinge to allow you to apply the locktite. 1974 ford ltd 4 door for saleRecheck that the door fits without a gap and clean up any excess sealer. garage door track lowesAfter the locktite has dried, you can remove the wedges and test the door. If you find that your door needs adjusting often, you may find that adding a third hinge in the middle will fix the problem. Sometimes it is the catch that needs adjusting. This is even easier than adjusting the door itself. The catch is usually held on with a couple of screws, and if you loosen these screws you can adjust it so there is a little resistance to closing and opening. Depending on the type of catch, you might need to add a bit of lubrication to it so it stops sticking.

A magnetic catch will probably just need adjusting up or down. If the door has had a hard knock and the hinge has been damaged or twisted, you may need to buy a new door assembly, or install new hinges. On the other hand, if your frameless door runs on a rail, you should check to see that the rail is not bent or filled with hair, scum, or the like. Always start with the simplest solutions so you can fix the problem before proceeding to re-tile your floor or walls. When fitted properly, frameless shower doors will give your bathroom a modern and uncluttered look that oozes style.Anodized Aluminum – An environmentally safe electrochemical process that converts the aluminum metal surface into a porous aluminum oxide creating an end product whose finish is more durable and element-resistant.ANSI – American National Standards Institute is an independent association of trade organizations, technical societies, professional groups and consumer organizations which establishes and publishes standards at the national level.

ANSI helps to assure the safety and health of the consumers and the protection of the environment. AccreditationAnti-Splash Threshold – Prevents water spills (See Dam Strip)Backwall (aka Shower Wall) – Economic alternative to tile made from acrylic.Bracket – Hardware clip that is installed to support and secure stationary panels.Bi-Fold – Doors that fold in the middle, usually having one end in a fixed position while the other runs along a guide rail. It is similar to a telephone booth door.Bottom Roller – Supports the weight of the door and rolls on a track or bottom guide rail.Buttress – Any horizontal surface with stationary glass that rests higher than the curb of the shower.Bypass – A shower system that uses two sliding pieces of glass. The doors slide on a track behind or in front of each other so you can gain access to the shower from either side.Dam Strip – A low-profile, semi-round water strip that is positioned on the threshold beneath the door to help prevent water leaks.

Enclosure – Sits against two walls as opposed to threeFinished Wall – Wall either covered with acrylic or ceramic covering, ready to receive shower door.Frameless Glass Design – Within the shower industry, frameless refers to any shower door that doesn’t have metal adhered to the edge of the glass. Frameless doors can have brackets on stationary panels, hinges, handles, a header or a u-channel on the stationary panel.Full Length Magnetic Door Latch – A magnet the full length of the shower door that ensures proper closure of the shower door.Guide Block – A block that is installed at the bottom of a shower/tub door that guides or keeps a sliding door in-line with either the stationary panel or another door.Guide Rail – A track or rail designed to control the movement of an object; such as a door. Top or bottom part of the sliding shower door or enclosure structure that provides support and/or acts as a track for the roller wheel assemblies for sliding shower door models.Hardware – Any component used to assemble and/or support the shower door.

Hinge Side – The side of the door where the hinges attach.In-Line Stationary Panels – Fixed/stationary panels that are “in a line” or the same vertical plane as a door.Inline panel(s) – A glass panel directly beside and on the same horizontal plane as the shower door.Integrated Glass Shelves – Provides additional support to stabilize a stationary panel, preventing it from vibrating when opening and closing the shower door.L-Bracket – A bracket shaped like an “L” that provides support for a stationary panel. It attaches to the wall and to the top of the stationary panel glass.Notched Panel – A stationary glass panel with a cutout, usually to accommodate a tub deck or buttress.Out-of-Plumb – Any surface condition with greater than 1/16” out-of-vertical line or out-of-square.Pivot – A supporting system for a swing door where the rotating mechanism attaches to the top and bottom of the door.Pivot Bars – A top and bottom bar installed at the door opening that stabilizes the panels and attaches the top and bottom door pivot system.

Pivot Door – A shower door that rotates on an axis by two metal pins that pivot on the top and bottom of the door. The weight of the door is supported by the bottom pivot while the top pivot acts as a guide.Plumb and Level – “Plumb” is the measurement of the vertical level and “Level” is the measurement of the horizontal level. The level’s “bubble” must be centered between the lines in the vial to be considered plumb or level.Return Panels – Stationary panels that are installed at 90deg or 135deg in relation to the door. Secured in place with support bars, wall profiles or wall brackets, and bottom brackets.Rough Opening – Preliminary measurement between unfinished walls or studs usually referenced for shower base or back wall installation.Seal Strip – Any plastic strip used to prevent a shower enclosure from leaking. Attached between doors and panels, between the door and the wall, beneath the door and the sill, etc.Semi-Frameless Glass – Frameless door glass that is hung with perimeter framing only (i.e. Flex, Infinity, Duet, etc.)

Shower Base (aka Shower Floor, Shower Pan, Shower Tray) – Part of the shower where you stand. Serves as the water basin for water to drain. DreamLine bases are made from sturdy acrylic and fiber glass reinforcement.Silicone Caulk – A translucent caulk product used to seal the edges and seams of shower enclosures. Its main function is to prevent leaking. Some silicone products have a mildew-resistant additive to keep it clean and relatively transparent over time.Stationary Panel – A fixed panel of glass that does not move, open, or close.Strike Side – The side of the door with the handle, opposite of the “Hinge Side”.Support Arm – Provides additional support to stabilize a stationary panel, preventing it from vibrating when opening and closing the shower door.Support Bar – Used to secure a stationary glass panel to the wall and to prevent glass deflection.Sweep – The strip that snaps onto the bottom of a door panel and seals the space beneath the door; also deflects water cascading down the door glass back into the shower or tub.

Tempered Glass – Heat-strengthened glass that has a safe breaking pattern. A rapid heating and cooling process makes tempered glass four times stronger than non-tempered glass. Once a piece of glass has been tempered, it cannot be cut. In the event of breakage, tempered glass fractures into small particles which do not form sharp edges. All DreamLine tempered glass is ANSI Z97.1 certified.Threshold – A narrow, elevated surface of Tile, Marble, Granite, Acrylic base, etc., that forms the bottom of a shower opening. The surface on which a shower door or enclosure would be mounted.Trim-to-Size Design – DreamLine sliding door design allows for width adjustment by trimming the top and bottom guide to a specific size.U-Channel Profile – A U-shaped channel that supports stationary panel glass. May be installed to the wall and/or threshold.Wall Bracket – A clip that stabilizes a stationary panel by attaching it to the wall.Wall Profile (Outside) – Aluminum extrusions or profiles used to secure panel glass.