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Garage door bottom weather-stripping kit (including nails), maybe a half-pound of 1" or longer galvanized roofing nails, heavy duty staple gun with minimum 1/2" staples, hammer, patience. Optional:  Sandpaper and wood preservative. old weatherstrip completely, including old nails if possible. Any old nails or staples that are not removable should be hammered flush to bottom of door so they don't tear the new weatherstrip. Sand bottom of door and coat with a clear woodSince the weatherstrip is non-breathable solid rubber, moisture can accumulate between it and the bottom of the door, the door so that it is about chest height.Not my chest height,This will give you a view of your finished product as you work. can use your garage door opener to do this (most modern ones reverse on the down cycle and stop on the up cycle), or disconnect the opener and use clamps on the track(s). You can use one, or two for extra security!!

Unroll the weatherstrip completely, and make sure it is long enough. You want to avoid stretching it excessively now or during installation. If there is a ratty end (sometimes the ends are a little beaten up because of staples or other rude behavior), and you have extra length to work with, do a little trimming. Position the weatherstrip so that the overhang extends to the inside. If the overhang extends to the outside, the weather-strip will hit the garage door frame and force you to trim it to compensate. Only install the weatherstrip with the overhang outside if the outside level is significantly lower than the area Sometimes, there is a single hole for you to nailIn either case, you will not do any fastening through the bracket until you get the rest of the weatherstrip secured. Line up the weatherstrip so it lines up with or is slightly past the end of the door, and with the outside edge where youPut a staple through the weatherstrip and into the bottom of the