garage entry door self closing
It's code in most areas that the entry door to an attached garage be “fire-rated” and have aThe purpose is to keep a garage fire from spreading to the house. this door self-closing is as simple as changing two or three of the door's hinges or installing a door closer at the top of the door. It'll cost about the same to go either route, and either is acceptable. If you plan to use self-closing hinges, take the original middle hinge to your home center or lumberyard, and find self-closing hinges with plates the same size as the ones already on the door. You may have to chisel the edge of the door to get a new square-cornered hinge to fit in mortises machined for round-corneredSelf-closing hinges look much like ordinary hinges except they have a bigger barrel to house the internal spring that makes them self-closing. hinges one at a time so you won't have to remove the door, then wind and adjust the springs with the tools
Door closers work well for odd or old doors that have hard-to-match hinges. good choice if existing trim won't allow for the extra thickness of the barrel found on self-closing hinges. can mount them on either side of the door. and installation instructions come with the closer. Whether you use a closer or self-closing hinges, adjust the mechanism so the door closes and latches on its own from a wide-open position. Miscellaneous Discussion for Inspectors Self Closing hinges on garage doors Need a home inspection in Louisiana? listing of Louisiana certified home inspectors. find a home inspector anywhere in the world with our inspection Re: Self Closing hinges on garage doors Originally Posted by jfrederick After many hours of extensive research, I have determined that it is a hing the closes itself. Story County Home Inspections And the tension is variable adjusting for the weight of the door. Cyr Home & Commercial Property Inspections
Originally Posted by jbelfus It depends on where you are at and what code you are under. It was removed in the 2006 IRC, but has reappeared in the 2012 version. Magnum Inspections Inc Website IF YOUR INSPECTOR IS NOT USING THERMAL IMAGING, YOU'RE NOT GETTING THE WHOLE PICTURE �Jeff Pope JPI Home Inspection Service Santa Clarita Home Inspection Precision Property Inspections LLC GoldenEye Home Inspections LLC Select your club and trust your swing A House on a Rock Home Inspections LLC Originally Posted by jjimenez I suppose you should determine if door is required to be fire rated first Originally Posted by growden I suppose that would be a good idea. I have already determined that. When are garage pedestrian doors on attached garages not fire rated? The hinges are not required but a lot of the builders install them anyhow. I have had a few that don't. Richard W. Washington, owner RW Home Inspections, Inc.
If you edit and complete your profile, your location will be displayed with each post.Attached Garage Fire Containment
porcelain door knobs history Why are garages (both attached and detached) fire hazards?
garage door prices in calgary Oil or gasoline can drip from cars. These fluids may collect unnoticed and eventually ignite. Flammable liquids, such as gasoline, oil and paint, are commonly stored in garages. Some other examples are brake fluid, degreaser, motor oil, varnish, lighter fluid, and fluids containing solvents, such as paint thinner. These chemicals are flammable in their fluid form, and some may create explosive vapors. Heaters and boilers, which are frequently installed in garages, create sparks that can ignite fumes or fluids. Car batteries, too, will spark under certain conditions.
Mechanical or electrical building projects are often undertaken in the garage. Fires can easily start while a careless occupant is welding near flammable materials. The 2006 edition of the International Residential Code (IRC) states the following concerning doors that separate garages from living areas: Openings from a private garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and the residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 1-3/8” (35 mm) in thickness, solid- or honeycomb-core steel doors not less than 1-3/8” (35 mm) thick, or 20-minute fire-rated doors. In addition, InterNACHI inspectors can check for the following while inspecting doors that separate garages from living areas: While not required by the IRC, it is helpful if there is at least one step leading up to the door from the garage. Gasoline fumes and other explosive gases are heavier than air, and they will accumulate at ground level.
Their entry beneath a door will be slowed by an elevation increase. Doors should have tight seals around their joints to prevent seepage of fumes into the living areas of the house. Carbon monoxide, with the same approximate density as air (and often warmer than surrounding air), will easily rise above the base of an elevated door and leak through unsealed joints. Doors should be self-closing. Many homeowners find these doors inconvenient, but they are safer than doors that can be left ajar. While this requirement is no longer listed in the IRC, it is still a valuable recommendation. If doors have windows, the glass should be fire-rated. Pet doors should not be installed in fire-rated doors. Pet doors will violate the integrity of a fire barrier. The 2006 edition of the IRC states the following concerning garage walls and ceilings: In addition, inspectors can check for the following while inspecting walls and ceilings: In garages that have access to the attic, a hatch cover made from an approved, fire-rated material should protect this access at all times.
Missing or opened covers should be called out, as should covers made from flammable materials, such as thin plywood. Garage attic door must be constructed such that the 45-minute rating is maintained; any drywall edges on both the hatch and the surrounding area exposed to physical damage should be protected. The cover or door should be installed so that it is permanent (non-removable), with latching hardware to maintain it in a closed position. This could be accomplished by the use of spring-loaded hinges, a door closer, or hardware that will not allow it to be left in an open position when not in use. A single bolt-type or hook-and-eye hardware does not provide a positive closure, since these would allow the door to be left open. Likewise, drywall screws are fasteners--not hardware--so they cannot be used as the only means of keeping access doors closed. The living space should be separated from the garage by a firewall that extends from the floor to the roof. If the ceiling material is fire-rated, the firewall can terminate at the ceiling.
Drywall joints shall be taped or sealed. Joints shall be fitted so that the gap is no more than 1/20-inch, with joints backed by either solid wood or another layer of drywall such that the joints are staggered. The 2006 edition of the IRC states the following concerning ducts that penetrate garage walls and ceilings: Ducts in the garage and ducts penetrating the walls or ceilings separating the dwelling from the garage shall be constructed of a minimum No. 26-gauge (0.48 mm) steel sheet or other approved material, and shall have no openings in the garage. Dryer exhaust ducts that penetrate garage walls are serious fire hazards. These ducts are generally made from plastic and will easily melt during a fire, creating a large breach in the firewall. The 2006 edition of the IRC states the following concerning floors in garages: Inspectors should also check for the following: A curb should be present along the perimeter of the garage floor. This curb should be designed to prevent fluids from entering the living areas of the house.
Curbs are often useful barriers for melted snow carried into the garage by automobiles, but curbs can also keep chemical spills contained in the garage. Water heaters should be elevated above the floor by at least 18 inches. A pilot light may ignite spilled fluid or floor-level flammable fumes if the water heater is placed at floor level. Concerning items placed on the floor, inspectors should check for the following: All flammable liquids should be stored in clearly labeled, self-closing containers, and in small amounts. They should be stored away from heaters, appliances, pilot lights, and other sources of heat and flame. Propane tanks should never be stored indoors. If they catch fire, a serious explosion may result. Propane tanks are sturdy enough to be stored outdoors. The floor should be clear of clutter. Loose papers, matches, oily rags, and other flammable items are dangerous if they are strewn about the garage floor. General safety tips that inspectors can pass onto their clients: