garage door roller bracket home depot
Low-Tension Plug-End Extension Spring (0.177 in. & FREE Shipping on eligible orders. Used & new (13) from $14.37 Sold by WESSOL and Fulfilled by Amazon. Nylon Garage Door Rollers 13 Ball Sealed Bearing (Lot of 10)Details3-IN-ONE 100584 Professional Garage Door Lubricant Spray 11 oz (Pack of 1) FREE Shipping on orders over . 6.7 x 4.9 x 2.4 inches 1 Yr Manufacturer Defect 4.7 out of 5 stars #10,586 in Home Improvements (See top 100) #3 in Home Improvement > Building Supplies > Building Materials > Doors > Garage Doors, Openers & Parts > Hardware > Rollers #2,208 in Home Improvement > Hardware 3 pounds (View shipping rates and policies) Product Warranty: For warranty information about this product, please click here 5 star86%4 star9%3 star3%2 star1%1 star1%See all verified purchase reviewsTop Customer ReviewsTruly Sealed Rollers ... These Garage Door Rollers are the bestAs this was the first time I had done something like this, it took about 5 minutes per hinge
Updated: Sealed, but not as pictured. Unbelieveable quietnessThe end result of installing these is a garage door that makes zero noise when opening and closing. My garage door will be 8 yrs old in April and was professionally installed. It recently became quite noisy when opening and closing. I decided to give these nylon sealed rollers a try. Replacement was straightforward and there is a great youtube video to show you the basics. Essentially I used my DeWalt screwdriver DEWALT DW920K-2 1/4-Inch 7.2-Volt Cordless Two-Position Screwdriver Kit and a 11mm socket to remove the roller bracket screws. With the screws removed, it was easy to tilt the bracket so that the bracket and its roller were removed from the door. I did not have to do any bending to my track. I then used my Stanley pliers Stanley 84-055 Bi-Material Slip Joint Plier, 6 Inch to remove the roller retaining clip. Old roller was replaced with these new nylon ones and the bracket reinstalled. I did use C-Clamps to hold the door in the fully opened position in order to replace the bottom rollers.
The garage door opener is still noisy, but the door itself makes no noise.
automatic garage doors oxfordshireIn summary, these nylon rollers are excellent. I've read that nylon rollers do not last as long as steel rollers, but if these will last five years, then I will have made a good investment. See and discover other items: nylon roller bearing wheelClassic Spade Magnetic Garage Door Hardware Set (6-Piece)Nylon Garage Door Rollers (10-Pack) Premium Decorative Black Garage Hardware KitWire x 2 in. Inside Diameter x 32 in. L Torsion Spring in Right Wind (1 per Pack)Length Torsion Spring in Left Wind (1-Pack)Wire x 1-3/4 in. Length Torsion Spring in Right Wind (1-Pack) Rustic Aspen Magnetic Garage Door Hardware Set (6-Piece) Garage Door Dead-Bolt Lock with Cylinder Black Premium Decorative Garage Lift Pull 12 ft. Garage Door Extension Cable (2-Pack)
Garage Door Lift Handle T Locking Handle, Keyed Lock, For Metal Doors Garage Door Safety Cables (2-Pack) Right and Left Bottom Brackets Garage Door Top Fixture Garage Door Hinge No.1 Bolts Included 25 in. x 140 lbs. Blue Extension Spring with Safety Cables (1-Pack) No. 6 Garage Door Hinge 180 lbs. Garage Door SpringPulley with Fork and Bolt 120 lbs. Garage Door SpringUltra-Life 2 in. 13-Ball Nylon Garage Door Roller with Sealed Bearing and 4 in. If you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now. They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware!
You guys already know what happened next: John thoughtfully examined the hardware and announced, "I can TOTALLY make that." And so he did: The total cost for this door - wood and hardware combined - was less than $100. LESS THAN $100, YOU GUYS. Metal rails & tubing - $25 If you already have the door, then that's only $55 for the hardware - $55 versus $400. It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails. (If you're making the door, you'll also need a circular saw - or a hand saw and a whole bunch of patience. :D) So...you ready for this?! Then let's get to it. There are several ways to make a simple plank door. We used exterior tongue-and-groove board normally used for house siding: (The opposite side is a classic bead board.) Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries.
The three skinny boards you see on top there aren't attached; they're just there to act as a brace for the straps and to make sure the door doesn't bend: Lock those straps down tight! Once the glue has dried the next day, attach cross-boards to the door, if you like. (You don't have to, but they do add extra support & visual interest.) Here I've also distressed my door by banging it up with a hammer and screw: Now stain or paint the door to your preference: I stained mine to match the cabinet doors we just made. Now, on to the hardware! You'll need two 2.5 inch pulleys that look like this: Lowe's and Home Depot didn't have them, but John finally tracked some down at Ace Hardware. (I also found some here on Amazon for about $13 each.) The only part of the pulley you need is the center wheel, though, so pull the center pin and pop that out: Now take a bar of 1.5 inch solid steel (available at any hardware store), and stick one end of it in a table vise:
Bend it down as you see John doing here. (This really doesn't require a lot of strength; the leverage of the bar does all the work for you.) The hook you've just made is what's going to hold your wheel. You need to clean up the hook shape, though, so next remove it from the vise and bang the bend flat with a hammer: You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to. Odds are you'll have to flatten it a bit too far, so now pry the hook back up a bit: ...and then slip the pulley casing in to get the distance right: Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up. Now test the fit with your wheel; it should fit perfectly, with just the right amount of wiggle room on either side of the wheel: That's one bracket done! Now cut your bar to whatever length your door requires: And repeat the whole process for bracket number two.
(You can see here that John bent both hooks on either side of the bar and then just cut it in half.) You may also want to grind down your cut edges, in case they're too sharp. When you have both brackets ready, it's time to attach the wheels. Drill a hole straight through each hook, piercing both layers of steel: Your wheel will be supported by a pin placed through these holes. The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door.If you plan to paint your hardware, now's the time to do it! We used a flat black metal primer. (I plan to age it with a little sanding later.) Attach your bar brackets to your door. I didn't grab a photo before we hung the door, but here's a close-up of the hardware: Now all that's left is the rolly bar! This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it.
Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle. Now my lovely hand model will demonstrate how this bar will attach to your wall: Ok, so here you've got a honkin' (technical term) concrete anchor in John's right hand. That goes in the wall. That long screw sticking out goes in the anchor. Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length. The tube acts as your spacer - very important. Each of the holes you drilled in your bar will have this same set up. When it's installed, your bar should look something like this: Note again that the bolts are located on the lower third of the bar, not the middle. This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them. Ok, so get this: YOU'RE DONE! All you have to do is lift your door into place on the track, and get to sliding! That's all the stuff it's covering up: pretty much our entire pantry.
The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us. Finally - no more clutter, and no more dusty cereal boxes! Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track. Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes. You can also install a stop on the rolly bar itself, though. Totally up to you. I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies. There may be some slight differences, but overall it's the same techniques we used. (And I found it - where else? - on Pinterest. Well, hope you guys liked seeing the next stage of our laundry room makeover! We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater.