A solid-core door requires at least three hinges. When a door starts to sag and hang crooked, it always does so from the top, so the upper part of the doorknob side is where it will start to catch. Because gravity works on a door in this way, hinges are placed on the high side, with the bottom hinge 10 inches from the bottom of the door and the top one 5 inches from the top of the door. You can get away with two hinges on a light, hollow-core door, but will need at least three on solid core or exterior doors. Do all trimming and fitting on the door before marking your hinge attachment points. Measure 10 inches from the bottom of the door and make a mark with the pencil. Lay the hinge on the edge of the door with the bottom of the hinge on your mark. Make another mark on the door through the center screw hole of the hinge and trace the outline of the hinge with your pencil so you can mortise it later. Measure 5 inches from the top of the door. Lay the top hinge against the side of the door with the top edge on your mark.

Make another mark on the door through the center screw hole of the hinge and trace the outline of the hinge. If you are only using two hinges, you are finished with your hinge measurement. Measure the distance from the top screw hole mark to the bottom screw hole mark. Divide the result by two. Measure down from the top screw hole to the halfway point you just calculated and make a mark. Lay a hinge on the side of the door so that the third mark is centered in the middle hole and trace the outline of the hinge. : Location of Hinges on Door Photo Credits Hemera Technologies/PhotoObjects.net/Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionThe information on door hinges below applies to hinges for residential homes and not for commercial applications. The hinges on our website that we call “Architectural Hinges” are the ones most people want to use when upgrading the hardware in their home or when installing new custom doors. Architectural hinges are a higher quality hinge, made of heavier grade material than Residential hinges.

They are available in all hinge sizes from 3″ x 3″ up to 6″ x 6″ and larger. Architectural hinges are available in a wider choice of finishes than are Residential hinges. They are also available with an NRP feature (NRP means non-removeable pin). An Architectural hinge with NRP is recommended on a door which swings outward. An outward swinging door has its hinge pins exposed and can be removed by unauthorized persons. When you upgrade existing hinges from Residential grade to Architectural grade keep in mind that you must increase the mortise depth on the door and jamb because Architectural hinges are thicker. An upgrade to the plain bearing Architectural Hinge is the Ball Bearing Architectural Hinge. Hinges do wear out over time. Heavier doors and wider doors put more stress on the hinges and they tend to wear on the hinge knuckles. The ball bearings are placed between the knuckles to reduce friction. Ball bearing hinges increase the life of the hinge, tend not to make a creaking sound, make the door easier to open and are a good choice anytime a door closer is used.

Residential Hinges are the door hinges that are used in most tract type housing today. They are lighter in weight and they are only available in a limited number of sizes and finishes. They are generally only available in 3 sizes (3″ x 3″, 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″, and 4″ x 4″). They are best used in lightweight doors. The above comparison between Architectural and Residential hinges is a general guideline. garage door repair wpbSome hinge manufacturers may use slightly different thicknesses, screwhole patterns, etc.wooden exterior doors halifax The top hinge should be located 5″ from the rabbet in the door frame (measure to the top of the hinge barrel). bifold door track hardware home depot

The bottom hinge should be located 10″ from the finished floor (measure to the bottom of the hinge barrel). This is the U.S. Standards procedure. Certain western states use as a standard 7″ from the top and 11″ from the bottom. The third hinge should be centered between the top and the bottom hinges. Swing Clear Hinges are used whenever a door is required to swing completely clear of the openings so that wide equipment (for example wheel chairs) can pass through.garage door remote dip switches Wide Throw Hinges position the door out further when it is open than conventional hinges. upvc doors and windows diyThey are used when a door is set back in a reveal (or where a door has a wide door jamb) and is required to open 180 degrees.what is the cost of a liftmaster garage door opener

Swing Clear Door Hinge              Wide Throw Door HingeA veteran carpenter shares his secrets about how to hang a door plumb and true even if the rough opening isn't perfect. Even a novice can master his techniques with a little practice. Tip 1: Shim before the door goes in a door: Set it in the rough opening, then level, shim and nail it. traditional approach works fine in a perfect world where walls are always plumb, floors are level and you have plenty of time to fuss with the fit. in the real world, some nonstandard tricks can help you finish the job The usual method of holding the door frame in place while you shim behind the hinge side is awkward. It's a lot easier to shim the hinge side of the rough opening before you put in the door frame. After that, it's a simple job to set the frame in place, screw or nail it to the shims, and then shim the strikeMeasure the width of the rough opening before you start shimming to

see how much shim space is available. Usually the rough opening allows for about 1/2 in. of shimming on each side of the frame. If the rough opening is extra wide, you can use fewer shims by tacking scraps of 1/2-in. plywood at the hinge locations first, and then add shims to plumb the jamb. Tip 2: Make sure an exterior door clears the rug Most of the time, you can simply set your new exterior door frame directly on the subfloor and the door will easily clear carpeting or a throw rug. But if you're replacing an old door with a thick sill, or if the floor will be built up with tile, thick carpet or an extra layer of wood, you could have a problem. And there's no easy solution after the door isYou can't simply trim the bottom, because then the door won't seal againstTo avoid this problem, add a spacer under the door before you install it. is to determine where the top of the tile, carpet or throw rug will be, and then raise

the door frame to leave about a 1/2-in. space under the door (photo). Tip 3: Set interior jambs on spacers If you set the door jambs directly on the subfloor, there's a good chance the door will rub against the carpet later. Of course, you can cut off the bottom of the doors, but it's easy to avoid this extra work by planning ahead. Find out the thickness of the finish floor and then calculate where the bottom of the door will be. installation so there will be about 1/2 to 3/4 in. of spaceUsually setting the doorjambs on scraps of 3/8- to 1/2-in.-thick trim will put the door at the correct Tip 4: Hidden screws make exterior doors stronger There are many benefits to using screws rather than nails to install exterior doors. They can be adjusted and won't easily pull out or loosen. But you don't want to leave the painter with the task of filling big, ugly screwThe trick is to hide the screws under the weather

stripping on the latch side. On the hinge side, you can simply replace one screw in each hinge with a matchingAlways start by drilling a clearance hole that allows the screw to slide freely in and outThis ensures the screw will pull the jamb tight to the shims, and allows for adjustment if needed. Don't let the spinning screw rub against the weather strip—it will slice right through. I know this from bitter Tip 5: Tune up the rough opening Twisted or out-of-plumb rough openings raise havoc withIf you install the jambs to follow the walls, the door is likely to swing open or shut on its own. On the other hand, if you plumb the jambs against the out-of- plumb rough opening, the trim will be hard to install. As long as the bottom of the wall isn't held in place by flooring, there's a simple solution. Just move the studs on both sides of the opening back to plumb. can do this with your trim hammer, though. a maul or a sledgehammer.

How One Pro Installs a Door in Four Easy Steps John Schumacher, owner of Millwork Specialties Ltd. in Minnesota, has been installing doors and millwork for more than 20 years. He's learned to avoid callbacks by doing the job right the first time. installation method in a nutshell. 1. Plumb the hinge jamb The hinge side of the door has to be plumb or the door will swing open or closed on its own. Start by shimming the hinge side of the rough opening. First make marks to indicate the centers of the hinges. Then use a long level or a long, straight board along with a short level to plumb the shims. of tapered shims at the top hinge. Then install the bottom shims and finally fill in the middle. 2. Screw the hinge-side jamb to the stud Remove the door from the frame and set it aside. hinge leaves from the jamb. Set the door frame in the opening with the jamb resting on the finished floor (Photo 2) or onDrive 3-in. screws through the jamb where they'll be

hidden by the screws. 3. Adjust the gap along the top Slide shims between the floor and the latch-side jamb until the head jamb is level. Now reinstall the door hinges and theAdjust the shims under the latch-side jamb until the gap between the top of the door and the top jamb is even. 4. Shim and nail the latch-side jamb Shim behind the latch-side jamb to make an even gap between the door and the jamb. Usually three or four sets of shims, evenly spaced along the jamb, are plenty. Drive two finish nails into each set of shims to hold the jamb in place. protruding shims with a fine-tooth saw or a utility knife. Tip 6: Trim the bottom to level the top Old houses are notorious for having sloping floors. some newer houses settle in unexpected ways. don't cut the jamb to compensate for the out-of-level floor, you could have a problem getting an even space between the top of the door and the head jamb. This is critical if

you're installing a door over existing flooring where the jambs have to fit tightly to the floor. Photos 1 and 2 show how to trim the jambs to fit a sloping floor. Tip 7: Hide screws behind the hinges Screws are better for securing the hinge jamb because nailsYou can easily replace one of the short hinge screws with a long screw, but it can be difficult to find a strong screw that matches the other screws. a trick we learned. Hide the screw behind the hinge. only takes a minute or two to remove all the hinges and gain access to this area. Then you can drive a self-drilling screw through the jamb with ease. Make sure the jamb is straight and plumb before you reinstall the hinges. Out-of-plumb jambs or a warped door can cause this. door won't latch because it's hitting the latch-side stop on the top or bottom, the fix is to move the stop. If it only needs a little adjustment, you can just tap it over with a hammer