This information is provided free of charge by the Department of Industrial Relations from its web site at www.dir.ca.gov. These regulations are for the convenience of the user and no representation or warranty is made that the information is current or accurate. See full disclaimer at http://www.dir.ca.gov/od_pub/disclaimer.html. Go Back to Article 2 Table of Contents From the publishers of Environmental Building News and Fine Homebuilding Home » Community » Green building techniques Exterior door details with 4" thick foam walls I've read plenty of articles on Dudley boxes and setting innie and outie windows, but doors are a whole different animal mainly due to the swing and bottom. The sides and top are basically the same details as a window to my understanding. It may be possible there is a manufacturer that makes door settings this wide that are affordable? The wood on all of the original doors is rotting because they were set 3" off the finished grade and got wet always.

The foam will be 4" in areas and the walls are either 2x4 or 2x6 depending on the area of the house. Some of my questions and concerns are: -How do I build the build the box for the bottom of the door? The door currently sits directly on a slab and there is also 4" of insulation beneath the door for the exterior of the foundation (it's only insulated due to radiant flooring with no insulation on the inside). garage door installation lexington scShould I use a steel plate and raise the door? glass door fridge lowesThe door sits directly on a concrete slab.screen door repair melbourne fl -Can I notch the king studs and header 3/4" to allow for the same sized door or window to fit in the original rough out?

As always, any and all help is much appreciated! Tags: Green building techniques Other Questions in Green building techniques Johns Manville Attic Pro and Insulweb? HTP Phoenix Light Duty paired with Lifebreath Clean Air Furnace (downdraft) Sealing holes in attic -- in outside walls insulated with cellulose? Stone (not veneer) over 3" rigid continuous exterior insulation Creating an air space behind sheathing on a double stud wallE/O 3-3/4 in. x 36 in. Brown Double Draft Stop for Doors or Windows E/O 5 in. x 1/4 in. x 36 in. Slide On Door Sweep/Stop 1 in. x 6 ft. 8 in. 1 in. x 81 in. White Vinyl-Clad Replacement Weatherstrip E/O 5-5/8 in. x 36 in. E/O 17 ft. Wood Thermo Plastic Door Set E/O 3-1/2 in. x 36 in. 3 ft. x 5-5/8 in. x 1-1/8 in. 5 in. x 36 in. E/O 5 in. x 1/2 in. 1-3/4 in. x 36 in. Aluminum Deluxe Flat Top Threshold E/O 2-1/2 in. x 36 in. Saddle Threshold for Interior Doors E/O 5-5/8 in. x 3 ft. Silver& Brown Fixed Sill Threshold

36 in. x 1-1/8 in. x 3-3/4 in. Vinyl/Aluminum Deluxe High Rug Threshold E/O 3-3/4 in. x 36 in. Aluminum Silver Low-Rug ThresholdSilver High-Rug Aluminum Threshold with Vinyl Insert E/O 1-3/4 in. x 36 in. 3-3/4 in. x 36 in. Aluminum Deluxe Low-Rug Vinyl-Sealed Threshold 3-1/2 in. x 36 in. Oak Low-Rug Door ThresholdBrite Gold Saddle Threshold for Interior DoorwaysSatin Nickel Saddle Threshold for Interior DoorwaysBe sure to scroll down... there may be more than one question on this page! I can try to get you started but I can't guarantee that it will be an easy job or that it may not turn into "quicksand"... my favorite expression for a job that looks small but grows to gargantuanI hope to give you a good sense of what this job entails and some potential problems so you can judge whether or not you really want to tackle it yourself. Rot repair is a two-step process... removing the rotten wood andThat at least sounds easy! And some rot repairs ARE

fairly easy, such as wood moldings or siding, since the entire rotten area is easily accessible. Thresholds, however, can be a problem when the rot extends beneath them. Depending on the design of your home, there is always the chance that other wood members will also bethese may or may not be accessible. For example, if you have concrete steps outside your door, there is often rot in the woodIt is almost impossible to remove all the rotten wood in these situations, so the only "easy" solution is to get out as much rot as possible and fill the area with a concrete patchingThis will give a solid base that will never rot again. am getting off track... The first step in this repair is to remove the old funky threshold. This is done by making two cuts with a circular saw across the width of the threshold approximately four inches from each side of the door frame (or as close as the body of your saw will allow). cut too deeply... just enough to get through the threshold.

have to make multiple cuts along the same line, that is better thanMake sure your saw has a carbide blade... there is a chance you will run into nails and if your blade isn't carbide it will most likely be ready for the trash heap should you hit one. You should now be able to remove the center part of the threshold, leaving a small piece on either side. If the remaining pieces do not come out easily, they are probably held in by nails to the door frame. Trying to pry them out may cause unnecessary and even severe damage toOld, dry door frames can split severely if you were to try to force the threshold out. Instead, get a wood chisel at least anSplit the threshold up into smaller pieces (along the length) by hammering the chisel into the grain of the wood from theThe grain may not be visible if the threshold is painted, but it runs from door jamb to door jamb. The threshold will split along theKeep splitting it until it is completely free of

the nails holding it into the door frame. You might be able to save yourself some splitting if there is a gap between the door jambs and the threshold pieces. This gap will allow you to insert a hacksaw blade and cut the nails off. You can get a special hacksaw blade handle for this purpose or lock a hacksaw blade into a set of ViseGrips. Once the threshold is completely removed, you will know whether or not you have a more severe rot problem. This is where it gets complicated, since there are too many possible repairs to go intoSo lets pretend that the rot does not extend beyond theNow your job is to install a new threshold. the center piece of the old threshold as a sample, take it to the lumberyard or home store to choose a replacement. information you will need is the width of your door. Exterior oak thresholds are shaped like a squat, fat "T" with two small ears that protrude under the outside staff molding. Thresholds precut into this shape are available.

Whether you will have to modify it or even make one yourself from a length of raw threshold is a big question mark. Chances are, though, there will be some modification needed to fit it under the frame. We are going to make a leap of faith (and time) and assume that you have properly cut and test fit your replacement threshold. trick is installing it in such a way that it will be as good andAnd it is a trick! Since the threshold is slightly tilted towards the outside to run off rain water, it is not just a matter of sliding it under the door jambs and nailing it in place.that would be too easy. To raise and hold the threshold securely, you insert strips of wood... a.k.a. shims... and insert them under the threshold to give it the support down under. Because of the threshold's angle, it is impossible to insert a shim to hold up the inner edge of the threshold while it is in place. Instead, you will have to attach a shim or shims along the

"two-by" frame under the inside edge of the threshold. width of these shims should be no more than 1 1/2 to 2 inches. take a few tries to get the shim's thickness right. level the frame is, you might be able to use a single strip of wood along the entire length of the threshold, or you might have to vary the thickness of the shim. Keep your goal in mind… to have the threshold held up strongly by this inner shim against the bottom ofA really tight fit might require you to tap the threshold into place with a hammer (use a piece of wood between the hammer and threshold to protect the threshold from damage). Once you have a fit that is tight and will stand up to weight, remove the threshold and put construction adhesive on the shim(s). the threshold back into place (it will slide in easier with the lubrication of the construction adhesive) and install additional shims under the outside edge of the threshold, tapping them into place until