It is amazing how common this is, and how few doors are designed to properly handle water hitting their outside faces - manufacturers seem to assume that all doors are fully protected by entry enclosures or porch roofs ! Six common causes, assuming door unit was not put in facing the wrong way in the first place. Most common is probably the last one:1) deck or porch tilts toward house, and water is saturating that wood or pooling on house side of porch concrete/brick and passing through the framing into the house - either directly (especially if deck boards/joists extend into entry as is common with cantilevered landings), or water is running along the porch and deck to the house, then in at rim joist or sill. Free water would almost always be showing up at the entry subfloor level or lower if this is the case, though could wick up higher. Tough to fix if there is no physical gap between porch/deck and house, especially if framing runs under door.2) Water is running under the wood sill (the bottom piece of wood under door - may be a 2x4 across under bottom of door frame (common in snowy or rainy country where doorsill is elevated) or may be the base piece of the threshold unit like shown here -Long-life siliconized paintable latex caulk might solve this

, though the sill should actually be set in caulk when first installed to minimize this type of infiltration, and if there is a gap between porch and doorframe, ice and water shield installed to keep water from getting to the bottom of the door.3) Rain hitting porch/deck might be pooling or splashing up under protruding threshold and penetrating the threshold unit at the interface between different materials in the threshold - like between the wood and the aluminum walk-on plate. Caulk again, but commonly takes removal of threashold to get at it. Obviously, if water pools there, solve that by adjusting deck/porch tilt, providing drainage holes in the deck near the foundation, building up a slight sill or slope on concrete porch, etc as applicable.4) Rain hitting door and running into the seam between the door and doorstop strip, and running down edge of door or frame to the threashold, then inside - solve with adhesive-backed foam weatherstripping on the stop strip so the door closes tightly against it.

In areas with extreme blowing rain, there are overlapping lip seals for that - or put a porch roof on to protect door from frequent blowing rain events.5) Rain getting into door window unit due to poor or non-existent seals, and draining out bottom of door onto threashold, then off interior threshold ramp into house.6) Rain hitting threshold and running down door face is splashing/seeping under door, on top of the threshold. Solution is a tight bottom-sweep doorseal, and a rain splashguard or dripcap on the bottom outer face of door like the following link, the type I use unless a fancy appearing one is desired - easy to DIY on most doors. If this is an occasional thing, only with sporadic blowing rain, just this type drip cap without a door-bottom sweep commonly works, but while it handles the water it is not as air-tight. Be sure to caulk the interface before applying it so water cannot run down the door face behind the cap.A threshold is a strip across the bottom of a door opening that seals it when the door is closed, so cold (or hot) air does not seep in under the door.

A threshold can be wood, metal or vinyl, but a popular option is aluminum, which is resistant to rot or water damage, cleans easily and requires no regular maintenance. Many aluminum thresholds have rubber strips that flex when the door is closed to provide a tighter seal. Replacing a threshold with a new aluminum one is fairly simple. prefab outdoor kitchen for saleMeasure the bottom of the doorway with a tape measure and buy an aluminum threshold to fit; outdoor patio furniture edmonton albertamost entry doors are about 36 inches wide. barn doors for sale in denverMatch height of the new threshold to the old; contemporary front doors norfolk

make sure the new threshold is no higher off the floor to avoid door closing problems. Use a rubber-centered threshold if the old one had such a piece. Locate the mounting screws on the existing threshold, typically at each outside end and usually one or two in between; some aluminum thresholds have screws clearly visible, but on others they are hidden under the rubber center, which must be pulled off to get at the screws. garage doors prices centurionTake out the screws with a screwdriver or screw gun. garage doors dorset ukRemove the old threshold; upvc doors and windows chinasome styles fit between the two side door jambs, while others are mounted under the jamb ends. Pull the old threshold out, using a pry bar if necessary to release it from under the jambs.

Clean up any dirt, dust and debris that had collected under and around the old threshold. Set the new threshold on the floor, with one end flush against one jamb, and mark the other end to be cut. Trim off any excess aluminum with a hacksaw and clean up and smooth the cut edge with a file. Mark the location for mounting holes if the new aluminum threshold is not predrilled. Drill holes in the aluminum with a power drill and metal bit. Lay the new threshold in place and use a nail or pencil to mark the wood plate under the threshold for mounting screws. Take out the threshold and drill holes in the wood, then set the new threshold back in place and fasten screws with a screwdriver or screw gun. Measure the threshold mounting holes and mark them on the floor if the ends slide under the side jambs, then slide the threshold under the jambs and screw it down. Things You Will Need Tape measure Screwdriver or screw gun Pry bar Hacksaw File Power drill Metal bit Nail or pencil Tip References Caldwells: How to Replace a Door ThresholdHouse Calls Home Services: Install and Replace a Door ThresholdTrue Value: Maintain Your Front DoorCreative Homeowner: Installing a Door ThresholdBurren View House: Removing and Replacing the Aluminum ThresholdLowe's: Door Thresholds Suggest a Correction