I am trying to find a door to replace one of my bedroom doors. The problem I have is that all the interior doors in my house measure 29-1/2" x 80". They are all hollow core 6 panel doors and look very much like a pre fab product with no signs of any custom sizing. Yet I am unable to find any doors to replace them at any store or online. Am I crazy or just that ignorant when it comes to this area home maintenance? Any advice will be appreciated. Not what you were looking for ? Hello and thank you for joining our How to Community. Is 29-1/2 “x80” slab or a door measurement? Slab is the operating part of the unit only and a door is the slab + the side jambs (frame). 29 1-2”slab would be matched to a 30” door (unit)... I've purchased both the 28" and 30"sizes, in hopes that one would work...no luck. Am I going to have to buy a comlete prehung door? No you don’t HAVE to buy one. However, considering tools needed and work involved, fitting a new slab, it might be EASIER if you were to buy one and replace a complete unit.

Right now you have a “non standard” 30” door/slab. To replace a non standard slab you would need to purchase a standard replacement non-mortised 30” slab. Non- mortised means that there is no bore (hole) for the lock and no slots for the hinges – so basically it’s a plain slab. This new replacement slab (non-mortised) it’s going to be slightly bigger than your existing slab, actually to be precise it’s going to be 5/8” of an inch wider and ½” an inch taller. This said you would need to rip a new slab for 5/8” of an inch and cut it down for ½” an inch to match your old slab. But it’s not that simple. You can cut ½” an inch from the bottom or top of the slab but you should not rip all 5/8” from one side of the slab. With hollow doors, side rails – section that it’s getting ripped down, its only 1-1/4” wide and if you were to cut 5/8” of one side of the door you would structurally weaken it. So to get this slab to last, 5/8” should be taken from both sides of the slab.

Once the door is cut to match the old door, next step would be to cut the hinge slots. For the hinge slots you can use existing hinges or the old door as a template. Once the hinge slots are cut next step would be to hang a door, test to see if it closes right, scribing a lock hole (with the door closed) ,taking it down ,boring a lock hole and hanging it back up with the lock installed. To make this all easier to grasp I’ve attached two videos in this post. One video demonstrates how to cut hinge slots and the other one how to cut a hole for the lockset. I know this can be overwhelming for an inexperienced DIY-er ,but if you’re comfortable using power tools (saw and drill) we'll be here to help with every step along the way. Or like mentioned at the beginning of this post, you can buy a prehung door and replace the old completely. This still may require use of some power tools but it would not entail as much work as changing the slab would. Just in case if you decide to replace the complete door, here's the How-to-Video that you can refer to;

Thanks for all the information. I am now armed with all the information I need. Now I'm off to Home Depot to buy my third and final door! The ideas and video which are shared are all informative. lambo door kit for 05 mustangThank you for sharing such useful ideas. garage door service elk grove caMy views said that to install door we should hire an experience contractor who can give you full ideas about replacement.  garage roller door melbourneAs there are various door collection which you can view on line like storm proof doors, impact doors , sliding doors, double-hung doors etc. With the renovation of doors and windows which are really important to be impact and safe which belongs to the comfortability of secured ambiance which have proper resistant asset. 

This doors collection will definitely help you. I am the father of 2 young kids, henceforth known as "Monkey Boy" and "Disaster Girl." As they break stuff around the house, I try to fix it.  This is how I fixed my bathroom door.   One day, Monkey Boy decided to swing with his full weight, hanging from the door handle of the bathroom door.  Not surprisingly, the screws holding the hinge to the 30-year old bathroom door decided that they'd had enough, and gave up.  The screws pulled out of the door and the holes were permanently stripped.   Like most ordinary folks, we enjoy privacy during bathroom time, so I needed to fix it. I had tried the toothpick and glue method shown here in the past on another door in the house when something similar happened involving a gaggle of giggling teenagers.  It did not work well for me, so I decided to try a more robust method.   I'll be drilling out the stripped holes and gluing in dowels to fill the holes. Step 1: What you'll need:Show All Items« PreviousNext »View All Steps Download

This is All About Controlling Sound and Reducing Noise coming through Doors. We sell hundreds of these door bottom gap sealers to hotels, motels, bed and breakfasts and apartment buildings  for cheap door soundproofing – take a tip from them! After dealing with the exterior sound coming thru  windows,  sound control efforts in a room should focus on the door: a typical interior  hollow core door will pass sound quite readily.  (An STC of much less than 20- this means conversation can easily be heard thru it). The door should entirely be replaced with a solid, exterior door, the thickest you can find.  “MDF” (Medium Density Fiberboard) doors are cheap and have good sound blocking qualities and available from Builders Supply like Home Depot. Get a door without the recessed decorative panels- they reduce the thickness of the door.  If it’s important to have them,  buy some that you can attach onto the door.  Make sure the door is well fitted to the frame, no gaps or crevices for sound to migrate through.

If there are  gaps, use our closed cell PVC tape,  (not from the hardware store). The door should be sealed off as if it was 40 degrees below zero on one side.  If it has a gap over 1/4″ at the bottom, use our door sweep seal, (a metal strip with a rubber flap) mounted to it, available from us.  Set it to just brush the floor.     If your door is a standard 36″ wide, you can get it and a roll of sealing tape for $36 Free Shipping! A seal is essential to properly soundproof a door. Our soundproofing seal is a rubber loop, carefully cut to your door width size, modified by us with sealed ends for added performance in creating a dead air space within the loop. We’ll cut this to an exact fit for  your door if you’ll give us the measurement of the width of the door. You will also receive the screws to mount it to your door.  Depending on if it’s metal, you’ll need to drill pilot holes, if wood you won’t.  Usually, only a screwdriver and a few minutes is needed to install this very much needed attachment to block sound from coming from underneath your door.

Some notes about our “Soundproof Door Sweep”: (The part that should seal the door bottom against sound and that fits on the edge of the bottom of the door). Since our doorsweep only seals up to a 3/4′ gap, a transom seal should be used from the hardware store that fits on the floor across the bottom of the doorway.  Use this kind if you have a huge gap. Try to get one with a rubber flap. (Mechanical ones are expensive and will eventually fail). Note, the illustration above would tend to make some believe the seal fits somewhat under the bottom of the door- not so- it just hangs down and does not slide under the door! Remember- it won’t close the bottom door gap over 3/4″,   if more, use  the above mentioned threshold to take up some of the gap or build down the bottom of the door with a wood strip. Sometimes it may take both! This wood strip was mounted with glue and screws using drilled pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood.  It was then painted to match the door finish.

The seal should lightly brush the floor, but a 1/4″ gap is acceptable when you are done. Your new door may still need sound insulation. Use 1/8″ MLV with 1/4″ closed  cell   foam, bonded to it. Then cover with “Super Soundproofing acoustical mat”.    Usually 1″ thick will suffice. Cut it a bit oversize to cover the seam of the door at the  frame to help seal it.  You can use the mat with the adhesive backing but you may not be able to remove it later. A typical door 3′ X 8′ is 36 sq. ft. so 8′ of the 4′  wide MLV will cover it. 9′ of the 4’X1″ foam will be needed. If there’s a lot of sound still coming through, consider hanging a “Mass Loaded Curtain” (barrier) or a acoustical curtain over the door and frame. You could use gaskets that are ordinary thermal sealing gasketing foam strips from the hardware store, but far better results can be had if you use our “Super Soundproofing 1/8” Thick Self-Adhesive Tape” , because it is a closed cell material, will seal better and is much more durable.

It is a gray tape in widths of 1/4″, 3/8″ & 1/2″ for door sealing.  Apply strips on top of each other to build up and close wide gaps. Think you can’t replace the door with your door, Landlord problem? You can always put his door aside and rehang it when you leave. Better, create an “Airlock door system” by leaving his door in place and adding another door to the frame, opening the opposite way. (Solid core, of course!) TIP: Remove the molding from around (use care to not split it!), the door and check the gap between the frame of the door and the rough framing.  Usually you’ll find there is nothing there!  Many times this empty space of the door frame has no insulation at all,  just covered by two pieces of wood molding. Pack the area with our Super Soundproofing Mat (you can order just a few feet, we have no minimums), or use our caulk, and cover the gap with our lead tape, then replace the molding. This tip applies to windows too! (Do not use expandable foam as for thermal insulation.

It will be worse than the airgap, establishing a soundpath). Sliding doors have little or no acoustical qualities at all and are best replaced with one that has, or if not possible, covered with a hanging sound barrier such as curtains, etc. If it’s a glass patio door, you could cover part of it with soundproofing mat and make a holding panel with mat attached to it to cover the door that moves when it’s shut. Another option is to add another patio door with a new frame. This double door will block a lot of sound by trapping air between the door panels. Commercially available soundproofing sliding glass doors can be had .  But you can do-it-yourself!Curtains hung across open doorframes usually don’t perform well acoustically, but do some sound blocking if they are heavy and fitted well to the frame. If made of clear plastic and cut into strips for egress, the strips need to be overlapped about 50%. When using clear plastic, use the heaviest you can, we have it in up to .160 thicknesses.