When maximizing usable space is your top priority, BMC carries a wide array of door slabs designed to be unobtrusive. These doors can close off a room when needed, and virtually disappear when not in use. Breathe life and light into homes with beautiful French doors crafted from premium wood and glass. French doors are a classic architectural choice and brighten any living space. Molded composite doors offer the upscale look of traditional painted wood doors at a fraction of the price, and with more options for customization like sound reduction and fire safety. Wood doors are not only functional and long-lasting; they are beautiful, timeless architectural pieces in their own right. To meet the many stylistic needs of our customers, BMC carries wood doors ranging from the classic 6-panel to lighted doors to full and half-louvers. In addition to our prehung units, BMC carries single door slabs perfect for replacing outdated or damaged slabs. Our single slabs are also available in a wider variety of styles than our prehung doors.

Our stocking program for quality interior doors includes 18", 24", 28", 30", 32", 36" doors in the following styles:6 panel primed, textured hollow core doors - a budget friendly option. Hollow door primed and ready for top coat of paint 6 panel pine - great for staining or painting 15 Lite - 30,36 for a 5' or 6' wide double 10 lite - 24" Doors for a 4' Double 2 panel knotty pine interior doors - great for a rustic or unique look We often have double doors to match in all styles, as well as French doors (with glass) to match our pine 6 panel doors. (6 panel hollow-core double doors are not available with glass). We also have Barn Door Hardware Kits for use with other doors.Special Order Doors (1-2 weeks) Our special order interior door program lets you order in just the look you're wanting. Doors are available in a week, pre-hung doors with a frame take two weeks. Our warehouse also has a large selection of value priced oak, pine, and hollow core slab doors.

We buy closeouts and liquidations of these, so we cannot guarantee availability of any one particular style. Our inventory of clearance doors is constantly changing, so you will need to come in to see what we have. We will offer you great prices on what we have! How to Trim a Hollow-Core Door to Height A clean, efficient way to measure, mark, cut, and fill a hollow-core door Occasionally, especially on re-cuts, you have to cut a door above where there is solid material, and you can’t just leave the bottom of the door open. sliding glass doors virginia beachIn this video, I’ll demonstrate how to cut a door and then block in the bottom so it doesn’t warp over time and it has a nice solid bottom.installing a garage door opener genie Replacing a door thresholdauto garage doors glasgow

Hinge adjustment for a door’s final fit A Custom hinge-mortising template Video: Simplify door installation First, I’m going to wrap the bottom of the shoe of my circular saw with masking tape to protect the door from getting scratched and dirty. On this door, I’m going to measure up 2-1/8″, which is not unheard of in houses where the flooring and framing aren’t planned well. garage door installation oshawaI’ll make a few marks, and then, using a straightedge and a utility knife, score a line all the way across. That helps break the paint and the fibers in the surface of the door so you get a clean cut. I’ll then place my saw with the blade just below the line I just made, and then I’ll make a mark next to the edge of the base of the saw in order to locate a straightedge to guide my cut. I’ll measure the distance up to this mark and then make a mark the same distance up on the other side of the door.

Now I can clamp the straightedge (in this case, a scrap of trim material) to the door to keep my saw running straight when I make the cut. Now I will cover the knife cut I made earlier with masking tape in order to keep the circular-saw blade from chipping the edge of the wood as it rotates up and out of the face of the door. It’s not entirely necessary to wrap the tape all the way around the other side of the door, because the blade plunging into the underside is much less likely to cause chipping, but I go ahead and do it anyway to be on the safe side. Then, I run the circular saw across the door, alongside the straightedge I’ve secured, to make my cut. After making the cut, I’ll remove some of the foam filler material in the bottom of the door to make room for the blocking. This can simply be done with a wide chisel. I can gently pry against the inside edge of the door if the foam is in there tight. When I’m ready to cut my blocking, I measure the width of the opening in the bottom of the door at the edges.

I don’t measure in the middle because the door is flexible enough that warping could give me an inaccurate measurement. After ripping a piece of wood on the tablesaw, I slip it into the door to check for fit, and I mark it and cut it to length. Before I put the piece of wood in, I run a bead of glue on the inside edge of each face of the door. I use a hammer to tap the filler piece into position, being careful not to push it in too far. Once one end is flush, I’ll tack it in place with my brad nailer, then work my way down the bottom of the door, tapping and nailing as I go. I use brads because they leave very small holes that will fill easily when I paint the door. Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox Come Work for Fine Homebuilding! We need a strong writer, editor, photographer, and videographer with a zeal for the craft of the trade. Video Vault: Make the Most of Your Tape Readers' Choice Finalist: Efficient Timber-Frame Living

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